Product Description
New in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert series: instruction for the beginning to intermediate rock climber by an internationally known guide.

*Author is an American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) certified rock guide and instructor
*Learning exercises reinforce key skills
*Step-by-step technique illustrated in over 150 photos
Craig Luebben has taught rock climbing basics to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the U.S. Here he presents the most common foot positions, hand grips, and body positions and how to use them precisely, from the smear to the crimp to the twistlock. Going beyond static moves, he emphasizes a dynamic style of movement for the greatest climbing efficiency--a style that makes the most of your strength and your time on the rock.

With an emphasis on safety and how to stay within your abilities, Luebben teaches how to evaluate potential hazards and then avoid them. Topics addressed include: risk management, face climbing, crack climbing, gear, knots, anchors, belaying, toproping, sport climbing, trad climbing, multi-pitch free climbs, rappelling, aid climbing, bouldering, training, and self-rescue. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (18)

helps
most of what this book covers lets the reader know the slow and cautious way to go about climbing but what i really liked was the small useful tips that littered the pages.

things likehand placement, planning your route,types of grips and exercises for optimizing your ability to not get stuck.

the real benefit of this book, though is the way it hammers home the type of mindset you need to really acheive your climbing goals, the way in which one should try and tackle a climb and the way to keep looking for alternative routes throughout your accent.

Perfect book for anyone interested in climbing
I bought this book along with "Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide" by the same author. And I just want to say that these books are terrific. A definite must for the bookshelf of anyone interested in climbing.

This book is well written and details many anchoring systems, knots, climbing skills, etc. This book is great if you are interested in any sort of outdoor climbing and if you have any questions about just about any topic in rock climbing at all. And, for more seasoned climbers this book offers many technical tips and suggestions that may make you look at some things in a different (more helpful way).

Bottom line: If you are going to be climbing at all, BUY THIS BOOK.

Practise, but be aware
that the best instructions you get from Luebben and the skills you acquire are no match for Mother Nature.Craig Luebben is dead after being hit by debris from falling ice in the North Cascades 2009.

Poor book
Definitely not the best book out there. I've read a bunch of this books and actually wish I wouldn't spend the money on this one... may be you want to try another one.

Needs better illustrations
It's an easy read and it gives a lot of good information, but I think the illustrations were lacking.Especially the sections of tying knots (it seemed like he was missing steps at times) and equipment descriptions (he'd name off all sorts of gear, but not show a picture of each one).The pictures are in black and white, so it didn't seem like you'd have to try very hard to include lots of them.

I wasn't thinking of using the book as a training manual, but I wanted to make sure I had the concepts right when taking my classes, so I would know the questions I needed to ask. ... Read more

Product Description
When your climbing team is in trouble on the mountain—how to get yourself out of a jam without calling 911. • Self-rescue procedures for teams of two—the most common climbing party size • Techniques equally effective on rock, snow, and ice • Utilizes gear climbers already carry in their rack • Includes 40 one-page rescue scenarios and solutions for analysis The rope is stuck—or too short. A crucial piece of gear is MIA. You’ve wandered off route into dicey terrain. An injury leaves you or your partner in need of help. Climb long enough and finding yourself in a jam far from help is inevitable. In Climbing: Self Rescue, two longtime climbing instructors and guides teach how to improvise your own solutions, calling for outside help only when necessary.

Because few climbers carry fancy (and expensive) search and rescue gear, all skills taught in this book use the items typically found on a climbing rack: rope, carabiners, slings, and cord. Text, illustrations, and photos explain knots, belaying and hauling systems, rappelling, ascension, passing knots, how to safely assist and rig an injured climber, and more. Roughly half of the book is devoted to real-life climbing scenarios and solutions ranging from moderate to severe. Because real-life situations rarely unfold as they do in practice, Climbing Self-Rescue teaches how to analyze and improvise your way out of a crisis.

ANDY TYSON is a guide for Alpine Ascents, Exum and Antarctic-logistics and Expeditions. MOLLY LOOMIS is an instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS), Alpine Ascents and Prescott College. Tyson is the author of Glacier Mountaineering; Loomis has written for Rock & Ice, Climbing, She Sends, and other publications. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (9)

A Must Read...
If you plan to climb more then one pitch or with other climbers as you should be... take a few hours out of your day to learn this information. Escaping the belay is a important process, and this book shows how to do so in several different situations. Rigging for raise and lowering is also covered very well, along with rescue situations and Reppel setup and backup. I still refer back to mine regulatly to ensure im doin things correctly. If your not sure about how you would pass a knot or raise an injuryed second this book can help.

knowledge that could keep you alive
I own Sylvan Rocks Climbing School here in the Black Hills of South Dakota.I see more epics (with other parties) then I care to admit.If you are going out climbing, the knowledge in this book is no optional.Gravity plays for keeps and when something bad starts and gravity takes over, its hard to stop.When it does stop, if you know how to pick up the pieces and use the knowledge offered up in this book, you will greatly improve your chances of getting yourself and your partner down safely.

Sending your project climb is perhaps more fun, but taking the time to read and practice the techniques laid out in these pages is essential knowledge.Going climbing without understanding the basics of self rescue is like driving without a seat belt.Its all fine until you need it.

When we have guest that comes to us wanting to learn how to use these skills I recommend they read this book before they spend the day with us.

Good knowledge to have in your head
Must read if you take climbing seriously. It's a book to have in your bag and in your head!

Indispensible
I've been climbing sport for about a year and a half, some multi-pitch.Just started leading trad this season, thought it was time to learn how to manage accidents/crises.This book has been just right for me.I have Freedom of the Hills, but this covers self-rescue in more depth ("self" means your party, as opposed to calling for search and rescue).It touches just briefly on ice climbing/big wall, covering topics that are applicable to most types of climbing.Table of contents: The Basics, Rescue Knots, Escaping a Belay, Descending, Ascending, Raising, Passing Knots, Scenarios and Solutions, Getting Outside Help (33 pages of 29 scenarios/solutions).The authors do a nice job of directing you to other resources outside the scope of the book.Concise, well organized chapters that build on each other logically.Set up to read straight through but also easy to reference specific topics/knots.Easy to follow diagrams/instructions.Nice mix of photos/illustrations.

Excellent, but suited for more advanced climbers
Ok, I'm fairly new to outdoor climbing, and if I got into some of the situations described here, I would just hang on the rope and scream like a little girl until someone more experienced told me what to do.

That said, if you're willing to spend several hours practicing the techniques, this book will boost your confidence considerably. I think it's more applicable to multipitch climbs, however the techniques are applicable to rappelling as well.

Don't expect to read it and know how to traverse a knot while rappelling. Until you try the techniques a few times and get familiar, you shouldn't trust them while on the rock. ... Read more

Product Description
New in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series: everything climbers need to know about setting climbing anchors, in one comprehensive guide

· Author is an American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) certified rock guide and instructor
· Learning exercises reinforce key skills
· Proper gear placement shown in more than 300 photos

Climbing anchors allow climbers to safely defy gravity. Solid anchors and proper rope techniques can prevent a fall from turning into a catastrophe, while bad anchors are an accident waiting to happen, says certified guide Craig Luebben, who invented his own type of climbing protection, the Big Bro. Since then, he has taught rock climbing to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the United States. He distills more than twenty-five years of experience into Rock Climbing Anchors.

This new entry in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series, for intermediate-to-advanced climbers, presents modern anchoring ideas and techniques for top-roping, rappelling, sport climbing, traditional rock climbing, and mountaineering—all in one comprehensive guide. Luebben covers the finer points of all types of commonly used anchors: removable anchors including hexes, wired nuts, tri-cams, expanding wedges, expandable tubes, and cams; natural anchors such as trees and boulders; and fixed anchors like bolts and pitons. Photos show a variety of gear placements, accompanied by discussion of the pros and cons of each. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (18)

Detailed and Lots of Pictures
I really like this book for the descriptive content. The language is very appropriate mixing physics and theoretical concepts without making it unreadable. Lots of pictures showing good and bad placement of gear. Just what I expected from an anchor book.

A must have for any climber
I bought this book along with "Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills". And I just want to say that these books are terrific. A definite must for the bookshelf of anyone interested in climbing.

This book is well written and has many illustrations to go along with the descriptions of more anchoring systems than I knew existed. The only down side to this book is that some of the photographs do not show the intended information as clearly as they maybe should.

Bottom line: Buy it, you won't regret it!

Great book
Very hands on informative information which has been tested by thousands of climbers and includes aspects as security and speed.

A must in every climber's bag
All the knowledge that you need to know and hopefully won't need to use ever. It's a most for every serious climber.

The best I've found, practically encyclopedic
Much better than the `other' climbing anchors book.Not only more comprehensive, but lacking some misinformation that can be found elsewhere.Describes and provides photos of nearly every technique I've ever learned, plus some new ones. ... Read more

Product Description
A handbook for experienced climbers covering all the physical and psychological aspects of climbing. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (13)

Awesome book, great condition!
This book is awesome and it was sent in excellent condition.Would definitely do business with again, thanks!

This book is cult
Although it has been written 15 years ago it's anything but antiquated (apart from the cover maybe). Easy to read and very descriptive. I read it first when I started climbing 13 years ago and it has accompanied me ever since.

Climber's Training Bible
I bought this book about five years ago and have used it extensively. If you are looking for a book on how to climb, this is not the book. If, however, you are looking for a book that will maximize your physical performance and prevent injury, this is the book for you. Packed with hundreds of pages of insightful text, detailed photos and illustrations, and illuminating charts and tables, this book takes twenty-first century sports medicine and science and condenses it into a practical format for the modern climber. I highly recommend this book.

Easy to understand book giving the why and providing the how
I thoroughly enjoyed the blend of pure science and application to on rock performance.

The authors are world renowned climbers with a clear enthusiasm for the sport and lucid understanding of it's foundations.

Succinctly, the authors view performance climbing as a harmonious blend of physical and psychological factors, the former subdivided into co-ordination ( technique ),balance, endurance, strength and flexibility.

The book is premised on the concept of the weak link which determines the greatest hinderance to climbing.

For example a body builder who climbs should not work on strength but rather flexibility and technique.
Similarly, a ballerina should not work on balance and flexibility but rather strength and technique.

The key to pushing the grades is to identify your weakest link and train to improve it.

The book is replete with training regimens, exercises, and techniques which address each area stated above.

The single best strategy implicit in the book is to identify when you reach a plateau and to realize that you are now training incorrectly. You should now strive to identify what is now your weakest link and train it. This cycle should continue as long as climb and wish to improve.

A four grade improvement is possible and should be expected within 3 months of adapting your current climbing strategy to this book.

An excellent resource
This book will not tell you how to hold onto a tiny crimpy hold with one finger while your feet hunt for somewhere to stand. It WILL tell you lots of things about how muscules work, what good training looks like, and what good climbing feels like.

This is not a recipe book, because in climbing, there is no recipe. Everyone climbs under a different set of constraints - strength, weight, skill, etc. This is a book that will give you the tools you need to watch your own climbing and improve it. Read it cover to cover. ... Read more

Product Description
Rock Climbing Arizona describes 20 of the state's major climbing areas, guiding traveling climbers to an outstanding sampling of the best Arizona has to offer.Easy-to-read overview maps will get you to the climbs; accurate route and topos and photos will help you get to the top; and clearly stated descent information will help get you down.Climbing hisotries, shop and gym listings, and a thorough index complete the package to make Rock Climbing Arizona an essential component of your next climbing trip to the Grand Canyon State.

Arizona is a rock climber's dream come true.High quality granite domes, hidden limestone canyons, majestic sandstone towers, and vast cliff bands of pocketed volcanic rock are only a few of the possibilities.Ascend multipitch crack and face routes at the wild and remote Cochise Stronghold, or cling to perfect edges on the crags of Mount Lemmon, the most visited climbing area in the state.Crank at popular sport climbing areas such as Jacks Canyon and Queen Creek,or push your limits on some of the most difficult climbs in the country at the Virgin River Gorge. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (1)

Good general guide
Rock Climbing Arizona, like most Falcon guidebooks is a good general guidebook. It documents most of the many climbing areas in the state, and has pretty good descriptions of many of the classic routes. It also covers some areas that were previously undocumented. This guide is the perfect book for someone who is traveling through the state and wants to explore some new areas. It does lack many details and routes, so most climbers will probably end up purchasing other guidebooks for select areas.Dancing on the Edge of an Endangered Planet ... Read more

Product Description

Product Description
The most comprehensive climbing guidebook ever published for Red Rocks, Nevada.

*More than 1500 trad and sport routes*Includes over 300 routes more than any other guidebook for the area, many of those routes never before been published*Features 90 topos and more than 100 photos with route overlays*Routes rated from 1 to 5 stars for quality

Just a 30-minute drive from the Las Vegas Strip, Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area offers the best off-season weather of any climbing area in the United States. Its desert climate and its abundance of varied climbing routes-from beginner to advanced, trad routes and sport routes, single-pitch to big-wall-have made Red Rocks a prime year-round destination. In the past, no single guidebook offered climbers complete coverage of the area, but this new guide offers everything they'll need to know to get the most from their trip to Red Rock Canyon, including visitor information for the Las Vegas area. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (7)

Great Guidebook
Great more/less comprehensive guide to Red Rocks.Since, it covers a wide breadth, expect some Beckey-like descriptions for less popular routes.Also, I found that some ratings differ from consensus on Mtn. Proj.

Very complete guide book
Really useful.Well laid out book for Red Rocks.Used on a couple of ocassions and always accurate.

Often Wrong
Very hard to tell if a climb is sport or trad or just happens to have a few bolts from the descriptions. Also, bolt counts are wrong- we got on what appeared to be a warm-up 5.8 but it had serious decking potential.

DO NOT BUY THIS BOOK. Get Red Rocks: A climber's guide instead. You will be happier.

do not buy this book
Do not confuse this fire kindle with Red Rocks: A Climber's Guide.I regret buying this book as it is wholly inaccurate and guaranteed to confuse.

Lots of errors
There are lots of mistakes in this book, including wrong names of crags on topo overviews, wrong grades on climbs, bad directions, and more routes in the topo in the book than in reality. ... Read more

Product Description
The beautiful granite of Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks in southern California is well known to climbers the world over, and many of the greatest innovators in rock climbing cut their teeth here.

Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks explains the development of technical climbing in the United States and shares the secrets of more than two hundred routes on Tahquitz Rock and three hundred on Suicide Rock. In this completely updated and revised guide, you'll find information on camping in the area, approach routes, and emergency contacts. You'll also discover: more than one hundred new routes, climbing history, route ratings, pitch-by-pitch written descriptions, detailed topos and clear overview photos, protection information and gear recommendations.

Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks is the indispensable guidebook to this classic climbing destination. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (1)

A considerable upgrade over the 2nd edition.
The photos and topos have been upgraded in the 3rd edition and they make it easier to find your way around.Many of the new photos are aerial shots and give excellent perspective.Much of the rest of the book is better too, with more background and better photos of climbers on the routes. ... Read more

Product Description

Customer Reviews (12)

to bad no color pictures
I have the field guide and its all you need... they are the same book.. this one goes into a little more detail but whatev..

Climbing Anchors, 2nd Ed - Review
I found this book to be informative, well presented and enjoyable.
I am still getting my head around the technical material. It does make sense and I will be using it in my climbing endeavours.
One thing that bothered me was the changes in the closeup photos.
I would recommend this book to all climbers planning to leave the gym and head outdoors.

A Wonderful Resource
A great way to learn the fundamentals for new trad climbers, but also a useful reference for everybody else.Clear prose and good illustrations make a technical subject easy to follow.This book should be on every climber's bookshelf.

Should be mandatory for all climbers
Many sections wouldn't apply to a sport climber, but even if you're just top-roping, reading this book is more than worth the time and money. It's more like a toolbox than a how-to guide. Even if you have zero interest in trad, it's nice to know how to place a nut or cam when you have a fifteen foot runout between bolts.

Required reading for outdoor climbers
I was just starting out on outdoor climbing this year when I decided I had to get this book. 'Climbing Anchors' sounded to me at first like it dealt purely with setting up top-rope and belay anchors, but it has a wealth of information on placing trad gear as well.

The first half has detailed discussions on the different types of pro, ranging from natural pro to passive/active pieces and fixed gear. John Long talks about how (and how not to) use these protection systems. It's still pretty up-to-date circa 2008, with the only omission I can think of being the Omega Linkcams.

The latter part deals with falls forces and anchor-building, with a large portion devoted to equalizing anchors. Near the end Long introduces a new equalizing system called the equalette, which is both (somewhat) self-equalizing and resistant to shock loading if a component fails.

After reading this book, I gained enough confidence in gear placement that I was leading easy trad within my first season of outdoor climbing.

The book is well-illustrated throughout with both photographs and diagrams, and the author's assertions are backed with test data where available. It's also surprisingly readable, with the history of the various pieces of gear thrown in, as well as humorous anecdotes from his own climbing career.

Overall an important book for climbers and aspiring climbers to read.
... Read more

Product Description

Customer Reviews (4)

The best resource for disciplined climbers
This book helped me a lot to improve in many aspects of climbing, and setup a serious training regime with real objectives. I helps you to work in conditioning exercises SPECIFIC to climbing and to avoid other types of workout that may even be detrimental. I highly recommend it!

amazing book
Amazing book
I love the mental and physical training sections
however it has lack of information (pictures) in technical training

Hands-on approach with in-depth real-life tips and tricks
It is a MUST for any climber, regardless of age, sex, skills or style - it really helps one improve results fast by better understanding how the body acts and reacts before, during and after climing.

It really covers everything a climber needs to know and more.

Simply the best Training book for Climbers
Eric Horst is THE expert on training for climbing.This book is by far the most up-to-date and complete source on everything from the mental totechnical to the physical aspects relating to climbing.It provides and explains the concepts in simple terms and provides the scientific reasoning behind them.Proven strategies that work. ... Read more

Product Description

Customer Reviews (4)

Girl on the Rocks: A Woman's Guide to Climbing with Strength, Grace and Courage
I ordered this book for my 13-year old granddaughter who is a rock climber.What a wonderful inspiration Katie Brown is.My girl loved the book and wants to keep it for future inspiration.

Girl on the the Rocks
I love this book. A great introduction to any beginning climber. Also teaches us old dogs a few tricks.Great Photos!

Inspiring book
I thoroughly enjoyed this book.Katie Brown has a down-to-earth style that shows her good personality.Although she talks about her successes, she is honest about her fears and occasional difficulties with climbing.I had slacked off on climbing, but this book really inspired me to get back into the sport I love.

A pretty good book
Would like it to have more info on specific climbing techniques for women and less extra stuff like interviews and how to fight your fear of heights. I expected it to be more training-specific. ... Read more

Product Description

Customer Reviews (3)

Great Guidebook
This new guide is pretty sweet. The color photos are a nice touch and make route finding a snap. Plus it's nice to have the routes from the various new supplement route books consolidated into one book so you really only need this one (for now). The only beef I had with the book is that there is no Routes by Rating Index like in most guidebooks. Other than that I think the Falcon guide is a great purchase.

Long Overdue!
Thanks for putting this together and publishing!Much needed and long overdue!Excellent photos and information, highly recommend!

It was worth the wait
This long awaited edition has gotten a little thicker with the addition of over 700 new routes. The drawn topos appear to be all re-drawn and the extensive use of photo-topos are a great addition. New visitors to the park should have no problem finding the route of their choice. The bouldering section of the book has been expanded quite a bit (45 pages total) and now includes photo-topos and V-scale ratings for problems. This edition is broken down into the same logical area specific chapters.

Disappointingly, many of the route and area descriptions have been toned down. For instance, gone is the classic Shiprock description "Only blockheads with enough experience to know better should try." Am I nit-picking at this point? Yes. There isn't much to criticize about the 2nd edition. Get this book and feel free to leave the 1st edition, Smith Rock Select, and all the supplements at home. ... Read more

Product Description
Scattered throughout New Jersey and just over the bordersof Pennsylvania, Delaware, and New York are a variety of cragging andbouldering areas worthy of any climber's tick list.From the steep,multipitch routes at the Delaware Water Gap to the excellent boulderingin New York City's Central Park; from the roofy routes at Ralph StoverState Park to the basalt boulder fields around Princeton and SourlandMountain; from the boulders of the North Jersey Highlands to the cleangranite slabs of Allamuchy State Park, this book offers comprehensivecoverage of the best climbing New Jersey and the surrounding areas haveto offer.Rock Climbing New Jersey includes maps, photos, and toposcomplemented by clear written descriptions that will get you to theclimbing areas and help guide you up the routes.Pertinent accessinformation and trip planning tips complete the package to make thisbook an indispensable tool on your next Garden State climbing adventure. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (2)

Worth it's Weight
This book is essential for the NJ/NYC climber. It details numerous climbing spots (of surprisingly good quality) that you never expected from the Garden State! It also is honest and accurate with area information and route grades.This way you know if you really want to drive that far for a 20ft wall.But at least you know its there and that the book left no stone unturned! If you're in the area, or visit often, this book is a must have.

Tells where to go and what to do if you climb & live in NJ
New Jersey Crags is exactly what you need if you rock climb and live in N.J.It gives great directions to each destination, including a detailed description of the approach.This book lets you know what your gettinginto, as far as the actual routes go and whose property your climbing on. After climbing some of the areas in the book I was was not dissappointed bythe accuracey of the ratings, and the discriptions of each climb. It is anessential for a climber in N.J., who does not have the time to drive to theGunks every weekend. ... Read more

Product Description

Customer Reviews (9)

It is what it is
This book covers rock climbing concisely and accurately. I recommend this book for anyone looking to get into rock climbing.

Most helpful for Beginners
This was the 3rd book I purchased for Beginners and it was actually the first one that truly was for Beginners to rock climbing.It assumes noprior knowledge and explains everything in understandable terms and sufficient detail.Best buy of the three books purchased.Additionally the prose is entertaining as well as informative.

thought the title fitting
Since I'm basically a novice, thought a comprehensive book on the basics a good place to start.Not to mention the fact that I often feel like an "idiot" around my fellow climbers who all seem to have many years experience under their belts (make that harnesses).

Overview
As a new person to the sport of Rock Climbing and an educator looking to introduce the ideas into the curriculum, this book along with others made for a great resource, breaking things down to simple concepts and terms to be taught in sequence.

Not much more than an overview of the sport
I hate to disagree with the other reviewers, but I guess your satisfaction with this book depends on your expectations.After reading the other reviews I bought this book on-line.I'm the type of person that wants to learn as much about a sport before I seek instruction so I'll have a good background and understand better what I'm being taught.The good: 1) light and humorous in places, 2) gives a good written description of the various aspects of the sport.The bad: 1) when you're trying to learn things, light and humorous gets old quickly, 2) the sidebars are repetitious and distracting, 3) after a while the stories about the author and her friends seem less like information and more like ego trips, 4) (my biggest complaint) there is little valuable detail.Specifically, very few illustrations or helpful pictures.Examples; she talks briefly about harnesses and harness components, but there's no picture or illustration.She talks about different carabiners, belay/rappel devices, and protection pieces, but no illustration.Half of the knots mentioned (and not many, at that) have no illustration (but she takes half a page to try to verbally describe some).Do you want to see an illustration of tying in to the harness, belaying and rapelling setups, how to use anchors or protection, hand and foot jamming, or anything else?It's not there.Instead, there are low-contrast pictures of her friends, which don't help with any of this information.Chapter 16 (Sum-It Up: Advanced Tips) has a picture (taking up 1/3 of the page) of two people on the ground standing next to each other with the caption "Choose your partner wisely."Is that helpful to anyone?

Here's the bottom line in my opinion: this book was written with today's legal system in mind.Anywhere important information should be placed, the author inserts phrases such as "This isn't the place to show you the simple knot that wraps cleverly around the biner; that should be left to the instructor".And what happens when you forget the knot after you're training class?Where's the reference information?

My basic setup for reading this book was to sit in front of the computer and when I needed to see something that wasn't shown (pretty much everything) I did a Google search and looked at web sites.Not the most efficient or enjoyable way to read a book or learn.My wife saw my frustration and did what I should have done; she went to the bookstore and picked out another book for a Father's Day present.I don't know how The Complete Climber's Handbook compares to all the other climbing books, but it has all the information that Idiot's Guide does not.Tons of illustrations (and lots of text) on equipment, knots, moves, and rope setups.Having suffered through Idiot's Guide, I feel like I've found the holy grail.

They say you retain 20% of what you read and 75% of what you see.I believe that.

In summary, if you're the type of person that wants a $ light-hearted verbal description of the sport (without much detail), then Idiot's Guide is the book for you.Although you could also get this type of information (and more) through free brochures by Eastern Mountain Sports.If, on the other hand, you're looking for a more in-depth overview AND tons of reference information and illustrations, then look somewhere else. ... Read more

Product Description
Thousands of sport and traditional routes on the myriad golden domes offer climbers of all abilities endless variety, from classic, well-protected cracks to delicate friction faces to edgy vertical testpieces. Excellent bouldering abounds, and unsurpassed camping in the beautiful high-desert environment encourages extended stays. Simply put, no climber's career is complete without at least one trip to Joshua Tree, and many people find themselves returning year after year. The long awaited reprint of Chockstone's "Joshua Tree Rock Climbing Guide" is the most complete guide available to the area. Maps, photos, and written descriptions give climbers all the information they need to explore and enjoy one of the climbing world's most treasured resources. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (8)

the original JTree guidebook
This book was the basis for Jtree climbing knowledge for years...Now that Randy Vogel already has another guidebook out (which is really good by the way!) and is releasing another one this upcoming January (2008) this book may become out-dated, but still a really good tool if you lack the two new volumes.

Information circa 1992: even the roads have moved!
The material in the 2nd edition is from 1992, NOT 2000 as the Amazon page says.We recently moved to Southern California, bought the book on Amazon, then went to boulder at Hidden Valley Campground.I had trouble getting my bearings... Intersection Rock was in the wrong place... the roads have all moved in that area since the book was written.I met a local in the parking lot and asked him what was up.When he saw the book in my hand he asked if I bought it at the ranger station, then complained that it was still on their shelves given how out of date it is.

I don't know if the publication date is a typo (maybe 2000 was the last reprint date?) but I'm not impressed with the book.Combine the lacking route descriptions (see other reviews) with 15 years since publication and you've got a pretty weak guide book.Spend your $33 on a better, more current book.

Great overall climbing guide
If you don't know where in JTree you would like to climb or if you plan on doing a little bit of all kinds of climbing, this is the book to have.It provides an overview for the whole area with great maps and photographs to easily locate all rocks (and there is a lot of them so the book is thick).Some of the maps and info are out of date and need to be replaced (the Hidden Valley campground/Intersection Rock map and information about showers).I also found myself constantly writing on the map page references for the different rocks.It may also be nice to include a guide on all major toprope, bouldering, and sport climbing sections, although these exist on the web.Overall, I had an amazing trip and knew where to go every day, I just wish I had more than 5 days to climb there.Ooooh, also the book doesn't tell you that you will have no finger tips left or that the ratings are really hard and you shouldn't use them :-)A 5.10c in JTree is apparently not a 5.10c anywhere else, but this is a one of a kind place!

This is the book.
There are others out there, but Vogel's Rock Climbing Joshua Tree is the definitive overall guide that both new and experienced climbers rely upon. However, for more detailed information on routes in specific areas of Joshua Tree (Lost Horse, Indian Cove, Hidden Valley, etc.), don't leave home without Alan Bartlett's excellent guides.

That said, Rock Climbing JTis and will always be a work in progress, as is any climbing guide, and should be viewed as such. Bolts on old routes can become unreliable, new routes are always being established and the ratings themselves are highly subjective. Some 5.8 routes have felt like 5.10, while another 5.8 can seem like a walk-up. Paradoxically, it is the trusted guide that can't always be trusted.

Each route has a star rating, a qualitative scoring process which is again highly subjective. Some routes have descriptions, some don't. Not all routes have accompanying photographs and in this second edition, there is still an annoyingly large number of misspellings and incorrect cross references. But as I said before, this book is a work in progress. It takes years and years of climbing prowess and research to gather information for a guide of this magnitude and despite the highly opinionated nature of this and all climbing guides, it is still an essential piece of climbing gear no Josh climber should do without.

Missing details, but great guide
This is a very comprehensive guide to Joshua Tree for climbers. It is the book that we always take with us as the defintive reference. Generally, the information is accurate and the maps detailing which rock is which in various formations is quite good.

However, there are several notable drawbacks to the book. First - the routes often have no description of them or any guidance as to the trad gear needed for a given route. Second, many of the routes for some areas do not appear in the pictures making route finding without a good desription, difficult. Third, descent information is often not found or has to be interpreted.

It may sound like there are major faults with the book, but in reality it is a good book that is very useful. Just don't expect it to tell you everything you need to know about a given crag. ... Read more

Product Description
From the editor of Urban Climber magazine: solid, clear instruction that takes gym climbers from novice to master.

*Indoor climbing is growing rapidly-significantly faster over the past five years than surfing, snowboarding, skateboarding and mountain climbing according to the Sporting Goods Manufacturers Association*Author is a pioneering instructor and gym climbing course developer *Key exercises reinforce fundamental skills, illustrated in sequential photos

Gym climbing has evolved into a sport in its own right and Matt Burbach has been there to spur it on. He established, developed, and directed the Indoor Climbing School of Earth Treks Climbing Center in Maryland, the largest climbing gym on the east coast. Now he presents the same techniques and training exercises honed by coaching hundreds of climbers.

Burbach covers all aspects of indoor rock climbing in detail, including what to look for in a gym, analysis of equipment and how it works, proper top-rope systems management, and movement technique. More advanced indoor climbers will appreciate chapters on topics such as indoor leading, performance, competition climbing, and bouldering. For outdoor rock climbers now training in gyms, this guide aids the "reverse" transition from climbing on real rock to pulling on plastic. Throughout, Burbach not only demonstrates the proper techniques and skills, but goes one step further to explain why those practices are better. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (4)

So, So... VERY BASIC
When I bought this book I was a novice climber, with only 4 months of work at my local gym and already this book seemed VERY basic.
Would have been good for my first two weeks at the gym, but at that point, even though I was bearly climbing above 5.10 this book didn't help at all.
I wish it would have included a 3 to 6 month comprehensive training program so I wouldn't have had to design it myself, improvising with info from this book and other internet sources.
Maybe it was that I got good guidance at my local gym which basically covered all the tips showcased in this book, but I insist, a good training program is missing here.

A good book
This book is an excellent source of information about every aspect of gym climbing. I found every chapter of it extremely helpful. The best part is that it is not a long boring book. Every bit of it contains information. The pictures help a lot.

recommendable
It is a recommendable book if you want to learn about climbing, lots of pictures that show precisely how to proceed. The best book I found so far.

If you climb you need this book!
Matt Burbach (a.k.a. M@ at Urban Climber Magazine) continues to impress with this instructive and comprehensive book on gym climbing.The photos and descriptions of everything from technique to learning how to lead are really useful for someone like me who is beginning to climb hard routes more consistently.I don't climb outdoors very often, so the other books discussing climbing on "real" rock don't really give me the information I need to improve at my local rock gym.Burbach's book is different.It is specifically geared toward "urban climbers" like myself who climb in gyms and want to improve.I recommend this book to people wanting to maximize their indoor experience. ... Read more

Product Description
Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe Features new maps, new routes, and exquisite cliff drawings. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (5)

It needs an update or Supertopo needs to write one.
This guide might tell you what's there but you'll have to figure out the rest. The topos are vague and the drawings are not very useful. Compared to the Supertopo books, the Falcon guides are useless. Unfortunately Supertopo only covers the South Lake area and neglects Donner.

vague directions
This guide brings the art of the reticent guidebook to new heights.Although I have only used it to find one climbing area so far, I already regret buying it.The directions to Big Chief are simply wrong.

Topos are tiny and hard to read
If you're over 40, I'd be surprised if you could make out the tiny print on the topos in this book.The text is very small and very difficult to read.There also is no ***** system recommending quality routes.Try to search out the old guide book with larger and more readable topos.

Your mileage will vary!
After waiting several years for its release, the new edition of Mike Carville's guidebook to rock climbing in the Tahoe area was finally released in 1999.This book was long over-due; and though happy that it'sfinally out, I am rather disappointed with it.This guide is ratherexhaustive in covering the climbing areas in the Reno/Tahoe area, but itfalls far short of other guide books, such as the "Climber's Guide to SmithRock" by Alan Watts, in its overall quality.

This guidebook lacks a"star" rating system, which many climbers are familiar with and finduseful.The new hand-drawn topos by Mike Clelland are a nice additionsince the original edition (1991), but their detail makes distinguishingroute-lines on some topos difficult.The book is seriously lacking in thenumber of actual photos of cliffs, and those included only show selectroute-lines.Most critical to any rock climbing guidebook are its routeratings, and many of those given in this guide are disputable.

Alltold, it must be remembered that this book is only a `guide' and is not theabsolute authority on what one will find at each crag.Your mileage willvary!If you are unfamiliar to the area, be sure to check with localclimbers, who are generally more that willing to give advice.Also, BobSutton's "Select Rock Climbs of Tahoe" is available locally and is a verynice compliment to Carville's guide.HAPPY CLIMBING!

New edition is largely worth waiting for
After a few years of delays, it's good to see the new edition of Mike Carville's guide to Tahoe climbing come out (the first edition was called "Climbing Tahoe Rock").I had been working off tatty photocopiesof the 1991 edition for quite a while, so having a sturdy, well-bound bookfinally to hand is a relief.

The major new feature of this guidebook is aset of excellent topos hand-drawn by Mike Clelland.These are among thebest topos I have seen in any climbing guidebook.Unfortunately, about 20%of the topos remain the vague and confusing outlines last seen in the 1991edition.

Directions to crags are generally good, but route descriptionsrarely extend beyond names and approximate indications of the lines ofascent.Carville's alternative to the star ratings common in otherguidebooks is a "recommended routes" section at the beginning ofeach description of an area, which makes navigation back and forth throughthe book an annoying necessity; this also makes it less easy to decidewhich routes might best be skipped by climbers unfamiliar with thearea.

As far as new routes go, this version doesn't seem to add a lot ofmaterial over what was in the 1991 edition.There is now a section on iceand mixed routes, which I don't recall seeing in the earlier edition (but Iwasn't interested in ice climbing then).

Carville has clearly put a lotof work into the new edition of this book, and while it's not the bestguide I've seen, it is certainly good enough to get you to some crag whereyou'll find whatever challenges you please. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (2)

just the popular routes but superbly written
Like most of Falcon's regional climbing guides, this book focuses on selected climbs at major climbing areas. Often these are harder climbs, but Farris includes enough moderate routes to make this at least worth consideration for a newer leader.

The downside of a best-of guide is that it worsens crowding and erosion problems at the better lines. It tends to replace and discourage some local guides (which usually channel revenue back to the climbing area), and at other areas climbers will soon need a more comprehensive guide. Farris makes the best of the format by giving good coverage where local guides are hard to find, and plainly stating in the Devil's Lake section that climber seeking solitude (and about 1400 more routes) should get the easy-to-find local guide.

More importantly, Farris addresses ethics clearly and directly. He makes strong cases for local ethics, erosion control and good behavior where other authors waver. His writing is friendly but concise, and it comes across convincingly.

This book is not a good choice for those looking to climb mainly at a particular area (especially Devil's Lake) or with new climbers anywhere. But for visitors to the region or infrequent climbers, this is an unusually worthwhile best-of guide.

Great Book
I though that this was a very usefull book for climbing.I used it primarily for climbing Blue Mounds in Minnesota.It had the majority of the known routes but unfortunatley not all of them. As far as the rattings are concerned they all seemed accurate and route descriptions were also great.The photos and detailed descriptions made finding the routes very easy. I give this book an A ... Read more

Product Description
The excellent crags of New Mexico and Texas beckon climbers from all over the world.Stunning alpine and desert scenery, high-quality rock, no crowds, and year-round climbing are but a few features that will draw you to places like Hueco Tanks, Cochiti Mesa, Socorro's Enchanted Tower, the Organ and Dona Ana mountains, Enchanted Rocks, and the Pecos River Gorge, to name just a few. Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas is the only guide available that covers all the major climbing areas in these two vast states.In the 23 areas covered, more than 100 crags and mountain faces offer hundreds of routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.14, appealing to both traditional and sport climbers.This guide includes first-hand information for area overviews and climbing histories, route betas and topos, detailed location maps and photos, as well as recommendations for equipment and information for approaches and descents.Also included are listings for shops, gyms, and guide services. Rock Climbing New Mexico & Texas is essential for planning your next climbing trip to the Land of Enchantment and the Lone Star State. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (3)

not great
for texas, it is not that great.The enchanted rock guide is all but worthless.Reportedly inaccurate in other areas as well.For an enchanted rock guide, check out erockonline.com

A much needed guide, but . . .
Dennis has done what a lot of folks have thought about doing, but never quite gotten around to it - a comprehensive guide to the state of New Mexico (Texas is in there, too, but I haven't climbed there, so can't judge that part).It is a very useful book for those of us who live and climb in NM, but as might be expected of a first effort, is incomplete and inaccurate for many areas.Still, having some information is a lot better than having none, so I recommend buying it.Hopefully Dennis will proceed with a second edition, but I doubt it, because there is a limited market, and it's a huge amount of work.

Poor
Having put up hundreds of routes in New Mexico, I was expecting this book to be an updated collection of all the new routes that have been going in in New Mexico. It's not. It's a collection of routes from very old sources.Let's hope Walt Wehner or Luke Laeser get their guides done soon!! ... Read more