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1. Let My People Go Surfing: The
2. The History of Surfing
3. Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About
4. The Encyclopedia of Surfing
5. Body Surfing: A Novel
6. Surfing: Mastering Waves from
7. West of Jesus: Surfing, Science,
8. Channel Surfing: Riding the Waves
9. Surfing Illustrated: A Visual
10. Surfing Photographs from the Seventies
11. Wingnut's Complete Surfing
12. Surf Science: An Introduction
13. Surfing the Edge of Chaos: The
14. Photo/Stoner: The Rise, Fall,
15. The Surfing Handbook: Mastering
16. Fad Surfing In The Boardroom:
17. The Art of Surfing: A Training
18. Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul,
19. Surf's Up: The Girl's Guide to
20. No Tech Hacking: A Guide to Social

1. Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman
by Yvon Chouinard
Paperback: 272 Pages (2006-09-05)
list price: US$17.00 -- used & new: US$9.81
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 0143037838
Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars
Canada | United Kingdom | Germany | France | Japan
Editorial Review

Product Description
In his long-awaited memoir, Yvon Chouinard—legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.—shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport’s equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life—a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike.Amazon.com Review
Like the carefully engineered dies which created his company's first products--steel pitons and carabiners which climbing enthusiasts would recognize as primitive forerunners of today's sleeker gear--Yvon Chouinard is if nothing else an original. How many other shy French-Canadian boys become surf-and-climbing bums, then blacksmiths forging their own play tools, and eventually founders of world-renowned sports equipment and apparel companies like Patagonia? How many other heads of multi-million dollar enterprises open their memoirs by stating bluntly, "The Lee Iacoccas, Donald Trumps, and Jack Welches of the business world are heroes to no one except other businessmen with similar values. I wanted to be a fur trapper when I grew up." The proverbial mold from which Chouinard was cast got broken.

In Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman, readers get a fascinating look inside the history and philosophy of both Patagonia and its irascible, opinionated founder. From its beginning, the book shares a sense of Chouinard's strong-willed personality and his love of the outdoors. He recounts a mostly happy childhood spent in a still-unspoiled southern California, climbing, diving, fishing, and surfing. The narrative soon moves into Chouinard's early entrepreneurial efforts, which were less focused on market-share domination than on earning a basic living to finance his own sporting habits. As his company's first catalog noted, delivery could be slow in the summer months, when Chouinard typically left the "office"--a dilapidated shack converted into an ironworks--for climbing adventures across the American West.

Eventually, though, the story settles into a pattern familiar to business audiences: Patagonia grows rapidly, takes on more employees and product lines to sustain hungry demand from customers, but overreaches with over-ambitious expansion plans and suffers a hiccup in its adolescence. This make-or-break juncture of a business's development often contains the most interesting material, and here Chouinard and his beloved company are no exception. He describes a series of wrenching decisions through which he and Patagonia management team navigated in 1991, as sales growth stalled while capital and operational expenses sprinted ahead. From this crisis emerged Patagonia's first-ever layoffs, affecting a hefty 20% of the workforce, and a serious re-examination of the business's core principles and methods.

The historical part of Chouinard's book largely ends at this point, and gives way to an exposition of philosophies which emerged at Patagonia during its dark moments in the early 1990s. The rest of the book serves as a kind of primer to business, the Patagonia way: one chapter each on product design philosophy, production philosophy, distribution philosophy, image philosophy, financial philosophy, human resource philosophy, and so on. Fans of Patagonia can revel in the company's working details, as can those who support or want to build businesses with self-consciously cultivated soulfulness. Readers who enjoyed Gary Erickson's story about Clif Bar, for example, should definitely find this a welcome addition to their bookshelves. --Peter Han ... Read more

Customer Reviews (61)

5-0 out of 5 stars Awesome Book
This book is pretty fantastic. This guy really seems to have it all figured out. It's basically part autobiography, part treatise on the environment. Yvon Chouinard tells the story of how he got started, launched Patagonia, and turned his company into an environmentally responsible organization. I honestly believe if all business owners read this book, their employees would be much happier people and the world would generally be a better place. This book is inspiring, and I highly recommend it. Buy this for your boss, and beg him to read it.

2-0 out of 5 stars No need to buy
'Let my people go surfing' is one of the most insincere books i have ever read. The story told in that book is most of the time uninteresting and dull. My advice is to save your money and time and to have a little look at the website of 'Patagonia'. It will give you similar idea to what you could get from the book itself.

Exception can be made for others who are interested in green business management and for the ones who adore Patagonia and Chouinard Equipment. You may purchase one copy if you do not have any better option.

4-0 out of 5 stars Fast, interesting read
Interesting story of an interesting man.I would have enjoyed more depth, but the book makes for a fast and fun read.

5-0 out of 5 stars Why can't I work at Patagonia!
This book is great, but it will make you want to leave your job and work for Patagonia.This is a tale of ingenuity, sustainability and a general respect for the environment that most corporations miss the mark on.
Once you pick up this book, you won't want to put it down, unless you're running to look for open positions on the Patagonia website!

5-0 out of 5 stars Different Way to Approach Business
As a business major and activist, this book was insightful to the successes and hurdles of a business.I always despised the mindset and attitudes of your average businessmen, but still wanted to open up a business.I think Chouinard created a great guide/blue print for business-minded people who want to be the freshest, sustainable, quality-driven, eco-friendly, plus all the things that a common business is not composed of.He opens up a door to innovation, not just for the business, but within the business as well.

He brings up a good subject that we should all be aware of.Every and all human activity leaves some kind of waste or foot print that is irreversible and harmful to the Earth.Chouinard wanted to become a part of the solution and from the very beginning made strides to lessen, and if possible reverse, the carbon foot print that Patagonia made.

My only criticism is the content deep in the book are extremely detailed, repetitious, and interconnected.Then, the book lagged and became a little boring.Still insightful, informative, and with purpose, but it dragged on.

I would highly recommend this book to anyone trying to start a business, business major students, Patagonia consumers.. - really this book can be related to many different people. ... Read more

2. The History of Surfing
by Matt Warshaw
Hardcover: 495 Pages (2010-09-01)
list price: US$50.00 -- used & new: US$26.50
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 0811856003
Average Customer Review: 5.0 out of 5 stars
Canada | United Kingdom | Germany | France | Japan
Editorial Review

Product Description
Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing that any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (3)

5-0 out of 5 stars A Masterpiece
This is it, the definitive story of surfing, surfers and beach culture.
It's a big thick textbook like collection of information, photos, stories and anecdotes.
Warshaw has set the bar so high with this work, I doubt anyone will ever have the balls to approach the subject again.
I will be reading and re-reading this one for a long time to come

5-0 out of 5 stars Surfing's Jame Joyce
A few years back, the Modern Library ranked James Joyce's novel "Ulysses" first on its list of the 100 best English-language novels of the 20th century.
Like this one, that's a big book too.
Well, this is the Ulysses of surf books.

5-0 out of 5 stars NOT JUST FOR SURFERS
I am not a surfer.But I am a history buff who was given an advance copy of this gorgeous book.I'm only on page 174, but I have to stop and share my excitement about The History of Surfing.How can you not love a book that describes the crowds at surf movies of the late 1950's like this:

"Firecrackers were lit and rolled across the floor to the next row of seats.Bottlecaps zipped through the air.High decibel beer-belches rang out.A motorcyclist might blow in through the side door, ride up one aisle and down the other, then gun back out the way he came.

"What older surfers invariably describe first when talking about early surf movies is the tearing thunderclap of cheers and whistles and stomping feet that began when the lights dimmed and the first blue-green image lip up the screen--a roaring noise signifying not just a manic willingness to be entertained, but the pure joy of an otherwise staunchly nonaligned multitude coming together briefly, powerfully, ecstatically as a group."

Now that's the way to write history.Kevin Starr, California State Historian, eat your heart out. ... Read more

3. Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
by Peter Heller
Paperback: 336 Pages (2010-07-13)
list price: US$15.00 -- used & new: US$8.56
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 0743294203
Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars
Canada | United Kingdom | Germany | France | Japan
Editorial Review

Product Description
With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life.

Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave— that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.

As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (27)

5-0 out of 5 stars Beautiful
"Kook" is a beautiful book and a beautiful piece of writing.Peter Heller has fine touch with words.He sees more hues than Renoir and soaks in every flavor and scent.He bathes us in the scene.We walk wet from the surf, sandy and dinged up and determined to get back on the board. We feel his ache to master the sport, we start to read waves and how they break.

Heller's lyrical poetry is the main tug through the book. It will help your enjoyment of "Kook" if you have a bit of interest in surfing.(Or the ocean--there are many keen observations about the ocean and development along its shores).

But "Kook" isn't all waves and boards.It's about learning a new skill and grasping the many nuances that go with it. It's about travel, in this case down the Baja Peninsula of Mexico.It's about the variety of characters Heller encounters: formal and informal surfing instructors, fellow surfers, fellow travelers and strangers too.It's also about The Beast, an overhauled VW van with its own quirks and issues.And it's about Kim, Heller's companion on the trip, and it's about their relationship.

The sections about his relationship with Kim are recounted with the same clear-eyed honesty as everything else in the book and, in spots, Heller lets us see his weaknesses, particularly his lack of patience.Full disclosure: Peter and I are friends.But in his writing Peter reveals some raw edges of his personality that casual friends don't ever see (I certainly had not) and, in a way, fesses up.

Along the way with "Kook," Heller recounts brief bits of previous adventures that led to previous outstanding books, "Hell or High Water: Surviving Tibet's Tsangpo River," "The Whale Warriors"(a trip on the same boat that's featured in Animal Planet's "Whale Wars" documentary series) and his work with the crew saving dolphins that was featured in "The Cove."Heller's fearless, adventurous spirit is palpable throughout "Kook" too, but he's also an artist working to paint moving scenes, in this case with words.

A sample: "We drove down into the dry-season heat of southern Oaxaca. Rough coastal hills, big spreading ceiba trees at the edges of pastures, small villages of thatch-roofed shacks. We crossed long bridges over wide rivers that ran mud-brown and slow now with the first mountain rains, rains that hadn't gotten down to the low country. The rivers were lined with palms and cornfields and they emptied into the sea below us. Others were dry beds reflecting back the midday sun, and horses wandered the arroyos and banks. I loved being on the road again. We stopped for lunch at a roadside shack that canted in a billow of fragrant smoke and steam curling out in the open kitchen.The woman offered us two platos del dia: iguana and armadillo. We had Cokes and drove on."

In my book, it's rare to have a tough-as-nails, full-throttle adventurer who has the ability to stop and see moments like that.All in all, it makes "Kook" worth reading and Peter Heller (and Kim) worth getting to know.

5-0 out of 5 stars For all
Kook is a book that can be read and appreciated by surfers and non-surfers alike. Kook is about discovering new passions and committing to them. Heller writes in a way that the average person can relate to. He's honest with himself and it translates well into the book. Even though I am a surfer, the message I took from this book transcended surfing and inspired me to step out of my own element and try new things. It made me want to do things that I have always been interested in but have been hesitant to completely commit to. I'm giving it 5 stars.

5-0 out of 5 stars oh my AWESOMENESS!
Read it in 3 days- such a great and entertaining book! Not only for surfers but us kooks too- well I can't really say for surfers but I've definitely always wanted to be one.
Peter's journey is the destination and it's an exceptional one.

5-0 out of 5 stars Soul Satisfying..Awesome book!!
Peter Heller beautifully captures his journey from Kook to true surfer in this book.I connected with this book in so many ways, having just started my own quest to become a surfer. His commentary on his love for his wife and there relationship provides a terrific addition to the book.If you need a book that will motivate you to get up off the couch and seek out an adventure, please read this book. Thanks Peter for a wonderful book I will probably read again once I have ridden the "wave of my dreams". If you love surfing or just adventure you will love this book..really!

5-0 out of 5 stars Awesome book!
Peter really portrayed his journey from a kook to a real surfer extremely accurately. He learned that the journey is not all about skill in the ocean but respecting the ocean and learning about surfing history and etiquette from people who make up the surfing family.

There are many touching moments as he progresses through the journey and travels through Baja. Peter is one determined guy! The book is real...no fake stuff. The episode in Japan is very sad.

I recommend this to any reader...surfer or non-surfer. It will be a book that surfers can relate to and a book that provides insight for non-surfers into the often misguided and misunderstood world of the surfing lifestyle.
... Read more

4. The Encyclopedia of Surfing
by Matt Warshaw
Paperback: 816 Pages (2005-11-07)
list price: US$24.95 -- used & new: US$11.51
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 0156032511
Average Customer Review: 5.0 out of 5 stars
Canada | United Kingdom | Germany | France | Japan
Editorial Review

Product Description

Now in paperback and updated to include forty new entries, this "leviathan of surf literature" (Surfing magazine) is a remarkable collection of expert knowledge, spine-tingling stories, and little-known trivia. With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, The Encyclopedia of Surfing is the most comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport by "one of surfing's most knowledgeable historians" (San Francisco Chronicle).

Each year, the surf industry brings in $4.5 billion, and more than two-and-a-half million Americans, from California to Delaware, have caught the wave. The Encyclopedia of Surfing is a book that no surfer-or armchair adventurer-will be able to resist.
(20031001)Amazon.com Review
What's that sound coming from the beach? That's the rustle of pages turning, as would-be immortals look themselves up in The Encyclopedia of Surfing, surfing's first comprehensive reference book. The Encyclopedia of Surfing chronicles nearly every bit of wave-riding--its history, places, mythology, champions, tragedies, in-jokes, and minutiae. Author Matt Warshaw, former editor of Surfer magazine, and his fellow researchers took three years to put together this prodigious tome. The most surprising thing about the book is its terrific readability. Though the 1,500 entries are organized in typical encyclopedic style, one after the other alphabetically, none of them--not a single one--is completely boring. Not even the one on the technicalities of fin placement. In fact, the book is a trap, leading unsuspecting readers on a wandering journey from pioneer surfer Duke Kahanamoku to the development of hollow boards to the lifeguards who used them to lifeguard Eddie Aikau to his home in Waimea Bay to.... Suddenly, hours have gone by and there's still the huge entry on Gidget to read. Illustrated like a dictionary, this book has only one or two small black-and-white photos every couple of pages. A history of surfing introduces the entries; at the end, a bibliography, round-up of surf contest results, and lists of movies, magazines, and music provide the big finish. Though Warshaw's first three books (SurfRiders, Above the Roar, and Maverick's) were entertaining looks at surfers and surfing, this one makes him the official Kahuna of surf lore. Surfing is a multi-billion-dollar industry, flinging hordes of people and buckets of money into the waves each year. The Encyclopedia of Surfing is its new bible. --Therese Littleton ... Read more

Customer Reviews (16)

5-0 out of 5 stars encyclopedia of surfing
I bought this book for a decoration more or less in my son's room...but we have both found ourselves looking through the great pictures!

5-0 out of 5 stars Serious Research on the sport of surfing
Matt went to Berkeley, a top-notch school, and so his research skills are high-level.One of the contributing ghost writers, who didn't get credit on this work, Nathan, just wrote a great surfing screenplay titled "Bliss" you can read for free on [...But I digress, I've surfed since the sixties, read all the magazines and books, and was surprised to read things here I didn't know.Sometimes I laugh at the magazine writers of today as they get things wrong about the sport's early days.Matt's always spot on.Anyone with the surfing bug, the desire to become a Don Redondo -- wiseman, wiseguy, or shaman of the sport -- needs to read this book.

4-0 out of 5 stars Lot's of Great Info
This book is full of all types of info, a lot more than I expected. Good buy at a good price.

5-0 out of 5 stars Fun, fact-filled book
This was the book I was looking for when it came to all things surfing.Everything from history, boards, type of surf, how to surf, surf lingo, and great pictures: it's all there.

5-0 out of 5 stars GREAT!
I bought this for my boyfriend last year and he is still reading it. It is a great book for the coffee table and it keeps you going back for more. It has everything related to surfing in a great layout. ... Read more

5. Body Surfing: A Novel
by Anita Shreve
Hardcover: 304 Pages (2007-04-24)
list price: US$25.99 -- used & new: US$2.50
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: B001F0RALQ
Average Customer Review: 3.0 out of 5 stars
Canada | United Kingdom | Germany | France | Japan
Editorial Review

Product Description
At the age of 29, Sydney has already been once divorced and once widowed. Trying to regain her footing once again, she has answered an ad to tutor the teenage daughter of a well-to-do couple as they spend a sultry summer in their oceanfront New Hampshire cottage.

But when the Edwards' two grown sons, Ben and Jeff, arrive at the beach house, Sydney finds herself caught up in a destructive web of old tensions and bitter divisions. As the brothers vie for her affections, the fragile existence Sydney has rebuilt for herself is threatened. With the subtle wit, lyrical language, and brilliant insight into the human heart that has led her to be called "an author at one with her métier" (Miami Herald), Shreve weaves a novel about marriage, family, and the supreme courage that it takes to love.Amazon.com Review
The beach house in New Hampshire which figured in Anita Shreve'sThe Pilot's Wife, Fortune's Rocks, and Sea Glass is once again featured in Body Surfing.This time, it is the summer home of the Edwards family, Anna and Mark and daughter Julie.Mrs. Edwards has great hopes for Julie, who is "slow," so she hires Sydney to tutor her, in preparation for her senior year.There are two older brothers, Jeff and Ben, whose arrival changes the household dynamic considerably.

Once again, Shreve revisits the minefield of love and betrayal that she has explored so well in her best novels.Sydney is 29, twice married, once divorced, and once a widow.She is floundering, not sure she wants to go back to school, accepting whatever job comes along and then moving on.She answers the ad for a tutor and finds herself in the Edwards household, where she discovers that Julie has undiscovered artistic talent.Mrs. Edwards dislikes her instantly, is dismissive, and treats her like a servant.Mr. Edwards befriends her, shows her his roses and talks to her about the history of the house, giving the reader a rundown of the role the house has played in prior novels.

Sydney, Jeff, and Ben go body surfing late one night and Sydney is sure that Ben has tried to grope her underwater.She takes immediate umbrage at this and treats him coldly thereafter.Shreve's other work has a steady narrative flow, but this novel is episodic and disjointed.There is the the arrival of Jeff's girlfriend, her departure, an evening when Julie comes home drunk and won't talk about it, and a liaison between Sydney and Jeff which leads to the complications that eventually define the novel.There is a twist at the end, involving the brothers, that is divisive, destructive and rather hard to believe.

While this is not Shreve's best effort, because the characters are not well-defined, it is worth reading her take on what happens to people when they compete for love.--Valerie Ryan ... Read more

Customer Reviews (110)

4-0 out of 5 stars Body Surfing... Laid out like a diary
I really liked the idea of this book. With the woman being involved with this family, as their daughter's tutor. And the two older sons come home to both find they have an attraction to the tutor. And all the dynamics which were to be played out for the reading.
However, when I opened this book, it almost felt too personal, as if stepping into a diary, or autobiography. It took me a few times to pick this book up and get in the rhythm of how Ms. Shreve has the paragraphs laid out - with conversation, and narative, and character thoughts. But I decided to push through it for the better. I wanted to hear the story she had to tell; and for a change of pace with other material I've been reading.
I read 'The Doctor's House' by Ann Beattie, and the rhythm and flow of 'Body Surfing' were similar. And I like how life lessons are plainly written for all to see. And its easy to relate to the actions and feelings of the characters. Learning to love. Finding individualism. Losing love. Losing a friend

5-0 out of 5 stars books
i have not read any of the books that i ordered.....they all go to my 2 children who live over seas...on military bases.............sorry....maybe one day i will get to read them.....i just buy them all from you !!! amazon is GREAT

3-0 out of 5 stars Unevenly nuanced but overall enjoyable
I was relieved to find that my confusion and lack of clarity about "Body Surfing"were shared by so many other readers, though having said that I still found it to be a worthwhile read. I particularly agree with the reviewer who said it read more like a draft than an actual finished version.

I have read many of Shreve's other books, and though this was not her finest, I did enjoy it in the end. The story focuses primarily on the love triangle between a summer tutor and two adult brothers in a wonderful beach town setting in New England, so clearly it at least rates as a decent beach read however,even half way through the book I still could not understand why the matriarch held such disdain for the tutor - Sydney,why Sydney never once addressed this, and why she had such animosity for brother Ben.I could not even tell why she was attracted to one brother over the other.There was no clear case presented for either brother.It was as if I was missing paragraphs that explained these phenomena (as at times I am prone to skimming), but upon looking for the missing pieces, there were none to be found, leaving the reader to make great assumptions based on very minute details. In some cases it worked, like preparing the reader that there was something slightly amiss between Jeff and Sydney, yet overall I found myself at times just conceding to faith... "It seems Sydney is really offended by Ben. I guess she has good reason." But it was a little hard to believe she could be so passive aggressive or simply passive...it didn't seem her nature to be so.

As others have noted the spacing of the paragraphs was completely unusual,unnerving,and seemingly unnecessary. It sounds worse than it is, because I did like the book, and would not have finished it if I wasn't at least somewhat compelled by it, and it definetly became more of a page-tuner in the second half, but overall it felt perhaps more than a little uneven.

3-0 out of 5 stars Reads Like a Draft
This is my first try at an Anita Shreve novel, and I was disappointed. The story has much potential, but it reads like a first draft or an outline of a novel, and her style is quite unusual, and, for me, coarse.

I chose this novel expecting to read about a love triangle and sibling rivalry. These concepts were merely mentioned at best. Characters speak of the competition between the brothers reaching as far back as their childhood, but you don't really see it. There weren't any specific anecdotes provided to give me a sense of how deeply the tension between the two ran. And the love triangle also was mentioned, but Shreve does not flesh it out.

The same can be said about her characters, with the exception of Mr. and Mrs. Edwards who are vividly written. I felt as though I was just beginning to understand the main character by the close of the novel, which made her feel distant to me throughout the story. Not getting a clear picture of the men central to the conflict made me unsure of whether or not I felt that the course of events and relationships was believable. I really felt like I was "reading a story" and not peering into the lives of real people. I like stories to feel real, not like fiction.

Stylistically, Shreve's writing is terse and a bit abrupt. There are many line breaks that are awkward and give the reader the impression that she has moved on to a different scene when really it is still the same conversation. Thus, the flow is often disjointed. This is carried through to the ending, which hardly reconciles all the conflicts and almost could be setting up for a sequel, although there isn't one to my knowledge. I have no idea if the main character achieves anything by the end: love, growth, satisfaction, happiness? The one thing Shreve does well but not often enough is chooses just the right detail to give a clear picture of a character. For instance, Mrs. Edwards has a strong dislike for Sydney shown in subtle gestures such as when she hangs Sydney's coat and it falls off the hanger to the floor and Mrs. Edwards simply closes the closet door on it. Here is where I saw her talent most.

Overall, I felt like the novel was an incomplete draft begging for more to make the characters and conflicts come to life. I will try another of her novels in case this was a fluke in her long line of bestsellers.

3-0 out of 5 stars Disappointing
Having heard good things about Anita Shreve I was quite excited to read one of her books.However, although I finished the book I was a little disappointed. The writing style made me uncomfortable, but maybe that's just me.I get irritated with so many descriptions that do nothing for the plot.It's a bit like all the fancy decorations that you can't eat on a plate at one of those upmarket restaurants, and the actual meal is so small you go home hungry.For me, Body Surfing was a bit like that. ... Read more

6. Surfing: Mastering Waves from Basic to Intermediate (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert)
by Elliott Almond
Paperback: 211 Pages (2009-04)
list price: US$21.95 -- used & new: US$13.97
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 1594850992
Average Customer Review: 4.0 out of 5 stars
Canada | United Kingdom | Germany | France | Japan
Editorial Review

Product Description
New in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series: The definitive how-to surfing guide!Surfing's not just for rebels anymore: anyone with the desire to ride a wave is grabbing a board and heading to the beach. Each year, this artform-cum-sport gains popularity as business executives, grandmas, teenagers, coastal dwellers, and adventure travelers get stoked to catch swells. This new guidebook by sports writer and waterman Elliott Almond is a primer for the uninitiated as well as a handbook for the experienced ready to build on their fundamental skills. Covering topics ranging from basic techniques to fitness prep (including exercises to get your arms ready for all that paddling and stretches to keep you limber) and from history, surf culture, and a complete explanation of gear, to how to find the right board for you, this book also features insights from industry leaders, pro surfers, and instructors. With more than three decades of surfing experience to share, Almond offers clear, authoritative guidance to help those venturing into uncharted waters find their way safely and confidently.

* Covers gear, fitness, safety, lingo, and rules of the water* Includes basic to intermediate techniques, surf culture, and competitive surfing* Author is an award-winning journalist and life-long surfer ... Read more

Customer Reviews (5)

5-0 out of 5 stars Solid footing...
As an Australian, surfing is one of those things that I should be able to do, but alas I'm yet to master.

I've spent numerous times on boards with mates, struggling to paddle-out through crashing surf, or wondering how I'm going to get back in without breaking my (borrowed) board or myself.

I should have read this book first....

It's a comprehensive introduction to all things surfing, from history, through the evolution of equipment, and finally to the drills necessary for you to stand on a board and beyond. A practical guide, it's a great introduction to all things surfing.

If you take the time to read this book and then practise the suggested drills I have no doubt that you could soon call yourself a 'surfer'.

A book can never substitute for time in the water, but this one provides a great foundation upon which to stand.

Now to find time for a quiet week at the beach....

4-0 out of 5 stars Solid, well-written intro to surfing
This is a really comprehensive introduction to surfing. If you have any fascination with the sport, this will answer all your questions on the history, the equipment, the necessary fitness, basic lessons, etiquette and more. No book can actually teach you to surf. Experience is the only real teacher. But if you approach new hobbies as a student, this book will provide the groundwork to give you the confidence that you know what surfing is all about. And Almond is a good writer, so you'll have fun in the process.

5-0 out of 5 stars go elliott
I found this book to be very interesting and informative made me wanted
to take surf lessons.

5-0 out of 5 stars Fun and inspiring read
I read this book from start to finish in two days, hardly putting it down. It is a well-written, engaging book that serves as an orientation to surfing's place in American history and culture, in addition to offering practical instruction on topics related to getting started such as choosing a board, wetsuit, and surf spot.

Although comfortable swimming in the ocean, I have surfed only a few times but would like to be a regular surfer someday, if geographically possible. Intermediate is all I aspire to be, and I think this book gives me a clear idea of how I would get there. I am fairly fit but I thought the book's advice on physical fitness for surfing and the tips for easing into actually standing up on a surfboard were very well done.

Overall, the book was a fun and inspiring read, making all aspects of surfing more accessible (lingo, gear, culture, etiquette, technique), increasing the odds that someone's first experience with a surfboard on a beach vacation someday will be a positive one.

1-0 out of 5 stars How to be a Kook in 5 easy steps
There are some decent surf instruction books out there. This isn't one of them. In 200 pages they manage to spend a tiny number of pages on the mechanics of surfing, and a massive number of pages on a distorted version of surf history (Randy French - hero? to who? paddleglove wearing longboard kooks?) The Surfing Travel section manages to not mention Indonesia. In short, the guide is miserable. So for those straight from Kansas - buy Jim Kempton, Surfing The Manual: Advanced. It will set you on the right path. ... Read more

7. West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief
by Steven Kotler
Paperback: 272 Pages (2007-05-29)
list price: US$13.95 -- used & new: US$2.99
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 1596913444
Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars
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Editorial Review

Product Description

A spiritual and scientific surf quest, West of Jesus tracks a contemporary surfing myth and looks at the neuroscience that connects spirituality and high risk sport.
After spending two years in bed with Lyme disease, Steven Kotler had lost everything: his health, his job, his girl, and, he was beginning to suspect, his mind. Kotler, not a religious man, suddenly found himself drawn to the sport of surfing as if it were the cornerstone of a new faith. Why, he wondered, when there was nothing left to believe in, could he begin to believe in something as unlikely as surfing. What was belief anyway? How did it work in the body, the brain, our culture, and human history?
Into this mix came a strange story. In 2003, on a surf trip through Mexico, Kotler heard of "the conductor," a mythical surfer who could control the weather. He'd heard this same tale eight years earlier, in Indonesia, but this time something clicked. With the help of everyone from rebel surfers to rocket scientists, Kotler undertakes a three year globetrotting quest for the origins of this legend. The results are a startling mix of big waves and bigger ideas: a surfer's journey into the biological underpinnings of belief itself.
... Read more

Customer Reviews (35)

3-0 out of 5 stars West of Jesus
Good book, but starts out really random infirst half. There are moments of brilliance that emerge. You have to be really conscious to find.

Maybe also read Golf in the Kingdomand Zen in the Art of archery

5-0 out of 5 stars best shopping experience ever...
I ordered the hard back copy of West of Jesus, a book about life and how to triumph over adversity, from the Atlanta Book Store and It was the best buy I ever made...The value of buying through Amazon Dot Com, is unreal, I purchased and had the book shipped to my house for under $6.00...you can't beat that..the book arrived before the estimated time of delivery and I am truly satisfied.

3-0 out of 5 stars entertaining journey, uncertain destination
Steven Kotler crafts an interesting, albiet meandering at times, tale of his quest to uncover the link between surfing and spirituality. The explicit goal is to find the source of a quaint surfing myth he heard on two different occassions in remote parts of the world, of "the Conductor" who can control weather and therefore surf.
I found the Conductor story weakly introduced and not very compelling - certainly not enough to launch a global quest to find out why a mythical man can wave a bone at the waves and conjure good surf. Apparently this was meant to represent the strong mystical component in surfing, but to me that explanation seems lacking. From that shaky launching point, SK employs an eclectic, multi-faceted quest for answers.
Belief and mysticism are explained primarily from a Darwinian, neurological perspective through a series of questions - scattered at times, lacking Pirsig's rigorous approach - many challenging traditional beliefs. However, we end up with more questions than answers. SK explored mysticism and found it lacking. He explains religion as simply an effective survival technique. In the end, we don't really know what Kotler believes, just what he doesn't believe.
Inherent in this surf tale is the assumption that nature is God. A more persuasive explanation, I believe, is that nature proves God. This is not a criticism of the book, rather a clarification of our differences in - as Kotler would put it - our personal mythologies.
Theological differences aside, this well told story has much to recommend it. As a very dedicated surfer (my wife would say obsessed) for over 35 years I understand intimately the allure of surfing and the changes it makes in your life. Steven does a wonderful job of communicating some of that stoke to non-surfers using almost no parochial "surfspeak". The link between surfing and spirituality is explored with depth and insight with a very impressive breadth of inquiry which made me question my own rather dogmatic beliefs. The story of Eddie Aikau and his brother Clyde anchors the terrific final chapter. However, in the end the explanations offered for the origion of belief and its link to surfing were not compelling to me. The quest was a fun ride but the wave ultimately fizzled, leaving me wanting more.

4-0 out of 5 stars A Wild Ride through Belief
Kotler sets off to find the origin of a surfer's legend, a story of an old man -the Conductor- who controls the weather and waves with a bone for a baton while astride his surfboard. Kotler's narrative is like riding a wave; the introduction of the legend is the swell, and his travels to New Zeland and Hawaii the drop and ride. Along the way, we almost forget about the legend of the Conductor, so engrossed are we with Kotler's exploration's into belief. We explore Jung and nureoscience, logos and mythos, cutting and turning through Kotler' belief theory tour. By the time we return to the Conductor, we've ridden through so much good stuff we no longer care about its origin. Kotler has a vivid prose style, and his sentences are fluid and graceful, and keep us engaged. Kotler also weaves his own personal narrative of his struggle with Lyme's Disease into his quest for the origin of the Conductor's story, and about two-thirds through, his themes weave together, like a roaring wave carrying us along. If there was any fault, Kotler might be guilty of a little too much name dropping, citing books here and there for nothing else really than to show he's well-read. But its a slight fault, and the ride is worth the read.

5-0 out of 5 stars West of Jesus by Steven Kotler
A sound journey down the road of whys. My second time reading this insured me there will be a third. Never has this happened before. ... Read more

8. Channel Surfing: Riding the Waves of Channels to Profitable Trading
by Michael Parsons
Paperback: 216 Pages (2005-03-22)
list price: US$34.95 -- used & new: US$27.72
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 142083312X
Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars
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Editorial Review

Product Description
Despite the proliferation of computer indicators, the professional trader recognizes that success in trading still depends on a person's ability to read, anticipate and react to market movement. But how do you define something that can change more often then the weather? The answer is to use the geometry of the market itself. Channel Surfing presents one of the most definitive methods for establishing the geometry of any market, enabling a person to exploit the bias between buyers and sellers. Price rarely moves in a straight line and so channels provide the ultimate momentum indicator, outperforming many of the most popular indicators in use today. The beauty of it is that it doesn't require you to suffer through large draw downs in order to realize a profit. In fact, it is so effective that it is probably the very best approach for beginning traders and those with very little capital. So just imagine what an experienced and well-funded trader can do with it! As you read this book you can expect to discover and learn:The basic concepts of Channel Surfing, presented in a way that is easy to understand and easy to apply. Why channels are a natural phenomenon and how to take full advantage of this. How to take the basic concepts of Channel Surfing and catapult it into an even more powerful method of trading using advanced techniques. Additional methods of reading the geometry of the market that add to your success. For both novice and professional traders alike Channel Surfing provides a solid foundation for understanding the language of the markets. It is an exceptionally powerful technique that has the ability to adapt to the personal trading style of the individual trader and dramatically improve their success. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (13)

2-0 out of 5 stars Nothing Here for Intermediate/Advanced Traders
I consider myself an intermediate trader (retail) and I use channels extensively. With that being said, I added nothing to my skill set after reading Channel Surfing. I had hoped to add some knowledge about topics such as mean price, but there was nothing. I suspect that the author's understanding of the mean is very sketchy. "Linear regression" gets a brief mention, then he procedes with a lengthy section on what he calls "Center Lines". This weak and out-of-context coverage of the mean left me wanting. The author's claim that this book has something to offer the advanced trader is like a false offer size seen in the market. I whacked a star for that.

The beginner (in technical analysis), should be able to glean some skills from the book, but its not at the top of my list for that purpose. See Turner and Nisson first. There are some basic set-ups here that should be of value to beginners. However, I whacked a star for poor editing and hard to read charts. I whacked another star because he recommends starting out on the short side of options. I left him 2 stars for effort, and to not completely scare away the beginners, but I have one final complaint: There is extensive material about manual charting that seems obsolete in the age of pocket computers. If you're drawing on charts with colored pencils and rulers, then you'll find this of value. If you use (or plan to use) advanced charting software, you'll have to translate his procedures into their higher-tech equivalents.

5-0 out of 5 stars It's a good book....... It is about nothing but Trendlines
This book is about trend lines only. Some people refer to channel surfing as the use of two High/Low moving averages, but this book has another use for them, which is the use of trend channel lines. This was my 11th or 12th book on technical analysis now, and about 90% of this book was useless to me, maybe only reconfirming what I have learned through experience and other books. But..........When I got to chapter 8 I had my socks knocked off. It is one of those things you just don't expect to get from a book. I actually knew a little bit about what chapter 8 covered, but the fact that the author bother to at least mention every subject even if he didn't actually explain it, impressed me a lot.

I wish this was one of my first books, and not one that barely taught me anything. But that's life and I am happy to have read it anyways.

Where does this book get it's 5 stars?
1.To start the book really does have a complete, profitable trading system. Is the trading system the most profitable? I don't know, I know it works because it was apart of mine before I even read it, but I do see it as having the potential to be profitable on it's own. I have certainly seen terrible "complete" systems, and this system isn't bad at all.
2.Next is that the book was written by one of the most talented technical analysis authors I have ever read. This book has the best personality I have come across yet.
3. And finally the author goes above and beyond what dozens of random technical analysis books I have flipped through never even gave a single sentence to. So out of the dozen books I have read and the dozen more I have skimmed, this one did add something the rest did not, even if it was only contained in 10% of the book.

I hope this review was helpful to you.

4-0 out of 5 stars Excellent technical trading book
I really like this book. I have read about channels and trend lines and such in other books, but they mention it as just another technical trading aspect. This book spends at least half its time discussing trend lines, channels, center of channel lines, and various support lines in great detail. Lines and price movements, that's most of what this book is about. Any technical graphing trader has to read this book.

Now for the reasons the book got 4 stars. The editing was sub-standard, I don't think a professional editor was involved. The author also likes to ramble at times. His ideas are just sparkling, but his presentation lacks now and then. The last parts of the book were less interesting I thought. The author talks about support and resistance lines, but since he draws over large time frames in all directions, the lines become a web, as he himself says. Same with repeating angles. I think channels are a fine and simple concept that really speaks to me, but webs of lines are too confusing and attract increasingly subjective interpretation. At the end of the book the author speaks about using channels for option trading which doesn't interest me, but might attract other readers. The chapter about math for setting stops was a bit too much for me, I can quickly estimate the prices for stops using a calculator or in my head, no need to be that precise or elaborate.

So overall, I highly recommend this book, but don't be surprised if you love the first half and wonder why the second half is not as good.

4-0 out of 5 stars The Cover is Awesome
I ordered this book due to all the excellent reviews on it, and when I saw the cover of the book with the surfing bear and bull, I figured it should be an interesting read compared to all those other trading books with plain or dull covers.

Anyway, enough about the cover. The book had great ideas regarding channels and they weren't overly complicated or anything. Easy to follow techniques and strategies for entries and exits. I liked the section where the author shared the formula to calculate what the price should be at a point in the future, and how to use that prediction to set your stops. Recently, I entered a trade on Corning (GLW) based on the rebound entry just because I read that chapter the previous night and it worked out pretty well.

Some things I think would have made this book better would be to add a chapter totally dedicated to drawing channels. There are explanations on how to determine a channel such as connecting the highs and connecting the lows, and using at least 2 highs or lows (the more the better). But when price accelerates or crashes and the channels start to "fan", or when the price starts getting choppy, I see the author drawing the new channel lines in the figures, but I'm not exactly sure how he decided that would be the new channel. When the price moves between highs and lows like a sin wave, it's easy to draw the channel, but once it doesn't follow the previous pricing patterns, how do we determine when or where the new channel will form? Would we just stay out of the trade and wait until a new well-defined channel forms? If so, that's fine. But like I said, in the figures, the author includes all kinds of channel lines and points out where all the entries and exits would be. But how did the author pick those points to define the channels? If that were included, this book would be even more awesome than it already is.

One more thing that's kind of similar to drawing channels, would be to include a deeper explanation on how "true" support and resistance lines are drawn. Those figures look like spider webs. Again, the author does briefly explain how to draw them, but I would like a section dedicated on why the author pick those specific high and low points versus connecting other highs and lows. Which highs and lows would be the most effective to define true support and resistance?

Overall, excellent book that I would definitely recommend to others. Easy to understand and implement in your trading. I'll need to come back and re-read it again to make sure I didn't miss out on anything.

5-0 out of 5 stars First chapter alone is worth the price of the book
I have recently taken a serious effort to learn how to invest better, as I have had to admit to myself that buy and hold is a really poor strategy.This is about the 8th book I have started to read on investing.So far I have only read the first chapter of this book, but it has opened my eyes on how to read price charts.In a very simple method you draw a few lines on a price chart, and you can tell when to buy and sell that stock.Granted I have a degree in physics, but you could teach a 7 year old child how to draw these lines.

The book has clear and well notated stock charts which make the material easy to understand.The book gets more complicated the further in to it you read.The author points out that you don't need to use the added complications if you don't want to, but they are there if you want to consider them.I will delve deeper into this book, but I am very happy I bought this book, after reading just the first chapter. ... Read more

9. Surfing Illustrated: A Visual Guide to Wave Riding
by John Robison
Paperback: 176 Pages (2010-04-16)
list price: US$16.95 -- used & new: US$9.15
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 007147742X
Average Customer Review: 5.0 out of 5 stars
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Editorial Review

Product Description

Expert instruction you need to take your skills from kook to boss

Author John Robison uses hundreds of pictures--comical, cartoon-like drawings--to clearly illustrateevery aspect of surfing: wave dynamics, riding techniques,etiquette, logistics, and more. This entertaining,easy-to-understand visual presentation makes it easyfor you to pick up his techniques and use themon the waves.

Robison covers every aspect of thesport, from paddling out through the surf zone andcatching and riding that first wave to nose riding, acrobatics,shortboard riding, and to equipment repairs.

... Read more

Customer Reviews (3)

5-0 out of 5 stars everything you want to know, but don't want to ask
This book is awesome for beginners, I wish it was out when I was first learning, but it's also a fun and educating read for the experienced surfer.Robison's amazing illustrations are worth a thousand words showing subtle differences between take-off positions, body position on your board, where to balance your weight once up on your feet...The drawings are fun and informative in a way that pictures and words just can't capture.He diagrams waves, wave riding tools including boards, kayaks, and your body.The section on surfboard design removes a lot of the mystery behind different shapes of boards available, helping beginners understand why they might want a nice rounded long-board to learn on.His simple charts explain a lot.
He is a master at communicating the infinite subtle intricacies that make surfing a sport that will become a life-long pursuit.
The real beauty of this work though is that he shares all this knowledge and experience without the attitude you might receive if you went to your local shop and asked about the basics of surfing.His advice will help the beginner to avoid getting the "stink-eye" as well as remind the experienced that everybody has to learn the dynamics of surfing (social and physical) sometime, check the section "so when can I catch a wave?". It is a complicated world out there in the line-up and heeding his advice might help you avoid conflicts.
After reading Sea Kayaking Illustrated I was hooked on his illustrations and was so excited to see this new work.I look forward to whatever he comes up with next.Here's to you Mr. Robison...

5-0 out of 5 stars A surfer's how-to with plenty of humor
John Robison has a way with pictures.When I read his sea kayaking book I was the perfect audience, an inexperienced sea kayaker in need of tips about tie downs and peeing while on the water.But Surfing Illustrated is different.I've been surfing for nearly 15 years and figured that although I'm no expert, I know pretty much all I need to know.Well maybe I do know all I need to know but I had no idea how much I wanted to know.

Surfing is a physical sport, so is waxing a board and tying on a leash.Text with photographs simply doesn't bring these basics home the way text and drawings do: step-by-step.And while Robison has a knack for blending humor into his teaching, it's clear after even a brief perusal, this guy knows a lot about the ocean, surfboards, and surfing.And I'm talking not just about wave riding and stoke, it's about being safe in the water, understanding tides and their effect on your local break, and yes, noseriding and pretty much everything else you can imagine on a surfboard.

Of all the surf how-to books I've seen, Robison's is by far the most accessible.It's simple but has enough to keep even experts interested.And for all you beginners out there dreaming of catching your first wave, this is the book that will get you there. From figuring out where to surf to managing yourself in the lineup to getting your first ride, it's all packed in with ample humor to keep you interested and to keep the sport fun, the way it's supposed to be.

5-0 out of 5 stars Detailed, well-organized and FUN!
What fun!A friend gave me this book when he heard I was going to try surfing on a recent trip to Hawai'i.It was indespensible!I took a lesson, and though the instructors were great, they couldn't possibly pack in as much information as Robison's book does.
While there is a ton of information here, it's easy to find and digest: the book is well-organized and easy to read.The cartoons are charming and funny, but also do a great job of illustrating surfing concepts (we're all visual people, right?).The author explains everything from wave physics to surfing etiquette (and of course how to surf).His clever drawings and witty sense of humor kept me turning the pages.Even if you're not about to hit the waves, it's a fun and interesting read.
Highly recommended! ... Read more

10. Surfing Photographs from the Seventies Taken by Jeff Divine
by Scott Hulet
Hardcover: 96 Pages (2006-03-01)
list price: US$40.00 -- used & new: US$24.40
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 1890481238
Average Customer Review: 5.0 out of 5 stars
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Editorial Review

Product Description
As a teenager taking pictures of fellow surfers in 1960s La Jolla, Jeff Divine got to know the original alternative sport before the X-Games were even a gleam in a producerís eye. Through this rare collection of photographs from the momentous decade that followed, he conveys the feeling of being on the beach in its most creative era, being present at the inception of a subculture too large and photogenic to stay down long. The style, the athleticism and the escapism in these images will be familiar to those with even a lazy eye on pop culture: surfing is on the rise again. Of its first time around, Divine says, ìYes, I had long hair. And Pendletons, Mexican wedding shirts, bell bottoms, Wallabies, Zig Zags and tuna, wheat bread, and sprouts in the fridge. Santana, The Dead, Jesse Colin Young, Steppenwolf, Moby Grape, The Stones, Beatles and Clifton Chenier on the stereo. Hippie seamstresses made us custom shirts with embroidered necks and coconut buttons. I had a beaded curtain through which you entered my den. No, I didn't have any black light posters, but I did have the Juan O. Gorman poster ìFlores Imaginariasî and Ortner at 3M's on the wall. Reading material? The Life Photography Series, The Tibetan Book of the Dead, M.C. Escher art books, Zap comics, or the Carlos Castaneda series. But our prize possessions were our garage-made surfboards all lined up in the side yard. They mattered the most.î ... Read more

Customer Reviews (4)

5-0 out of 5 stars One fine looking book!!
This book is a timeless classic on a timeless age.

Wow the seventies were great. Wish I could have experienced them.
This book will take you in a wonderful time warp when surfing was pure.
So, much love was put into this book.
I am forever stoked on this book.
Radical imagery, fantastical surfers purely magical.

5-0 out of 5 stars Wonderful Photographs!
I ordered this book and had high expectations, which it certainly lived up to!My boyfriend is the surfer/photographer and we both thought the whole lay-out and design not to mention the photographs were wonderful.Definitely recommend this to any photography or surfer buff!

5-0 out of 5 stars Simply Divine
After my old friend Ron Stoner vanished into the mystic, Jeff Divine became my favorite surf photographer in the 70's.His shots were clean- and-green or sharply contrasted black-and-white.One of the reasons the islands became so popular in the 70's was Divine's photos in SURFER.Everybody saw them, got stoked, and jumped on a 707.Whenever I reminisce about the old days of soul arches, single fins, and big bottom turns I pick this book off the shelf.Divine's photographs reveal a stoke unique to the era.I saw Brad McCaul at my 30th high school reunion, and he's still looks fit.

5-0 out of 5 stars if you love surfing...& even if you do not...
this is an amazing book- some of the best surf pictures (in my opinion) during one of the most visually inspiring era's of surfing.the pages are arranged in such a way so as to not distract you from their content, the printing is awesome and there's not a single shot not worthy of a poster size above your bed.this book will not harsh your mellow- it will make you want to move to lucadia, ride only a single fin & get a job wrapping surf wax for .25 cents per bar.... ... Read more

11. Wingnut's Complete Surfing
by Robert Weaver, Scott Bannerot
Paperback: 256 Pages (2009-04-09)
list price: US$17.95 -- used & new: US$11.60
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 0071497064
Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars
Canada | United Kingdom | Germany | France | Japan
Editorial Review

Product Description

From a world-class expert and one of thesport’s greatest legends comes the onlytotal guide for surfing

Surfing is a sport that anyone can pick up and enjoywith the right instruction. Yet many how-to books failto address crucial basics such as wave dynamics, boarddesign and performance, and strategies for paddling outthrough the wave breaks. Wingnut’s Complete Surfingcovers all this and more, providing you with a complete guide.

... Read more

Customer Reviews (4)

3-0 out of 5 stars Slightly misleading
The book does have good content, stories, and 'I know what you're thinking details'.The only thing missing is the actual writing of sir Wingnut himself.When you buy a book entitled 'Wingnuts Complete Surfing', one would expect to read about stories and insight into longboarding from Robert Weaver himself and not one of his buddies using his likeness to create a book project.That's akin to getting a book metaphorically called 'Tiger Woods' Complete Golf' and having it written by one of his former caddies.The information may be spot on and very usable, but the romanticism, for lack of a better word, would be missing.The book does feature Wingnut in many, if not most, of the photo sequences (from popping up to nose-riding).Buy the book if you're a beginner looking for some all around general information on an easy-going/easy-flowing style of surfing and not that you'd like to read the thoughts of one of the kings of longboarding.

5-0 out of 5 stars Interesting perspective; good photo sequences
This book presents an interesting perspective, particularly from a longboarding point of view, and also good photo sequences to depict some important wave riding typical progressions.

5-0 out of 5 stars The wisdom in this book saves years of trial and error
In this book, Wingnut uses great pictures and descriptions to share knowledge and technique it took me decades to learn through observation and/or trial and error. If you want to surf, I mean really know what it is to catch great waves, then glide across them with speed, control and confidence - start by reading this book.

5-0 out of 5 stars Excellent
If you are learning to surf or are wishing to improve, this book makes it easy to understand whether at home or at the beach. A must read for aspiring surfers of all ages! ... Read more

12. Surf Science: An Introduction To Waves For Surfing
by Tony Butt
Paperback: 144 Pages (2004-07-30)
list price: US$34.00 -- used & new: US$23.78
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 0824828917
Average Customer Review: 4.0 out of 5 stars
Canada | United Kingdom | Germany | France | Japan
Editorial Review

Product Description
Have you ever wondered where waves come from? What makes every one different, why some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, waves come in sets of six and others in sets of three, and what factors affect the behavior of a surfing break? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its second edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it--just curiosity and a fascination for waves. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (9)

5-0 out of 5 stars Great book for getting better sessions
If you live on the west coast of Australia, you won't need this book.(Although you'd learn why).Most other places this book is a MUST read for planning out and getting better sessions.I'm 40ish and just really starting to figure out where and when to score great waves.Don't waste your life missing the best waves of the year because you're unaware oruninformed.

4-0 out of 5 stars Nice Popular Science Overview of Waves
Nice Book. Definitely a good read. Does not go deep into mathematics of the waves or coriolis forces, but yet is lucid to understand and get an idea of the soup of elements at work to produce surfable waves. I am an engineer and could appreciate more math had it been there but I do not regret its absence. There are plenty of reference mentioned at the end which can be followed up for more curiosity.

Must have for the scientifically inclined surfers.

4-0 out of 5 stars Dude! It's Surf Science, NOT Surfing Science
If you want to see waves and surfing, buy a magazine.If you want to learn about the surf and waves, how they are formed, and what affects their size, form and period, buy this book.It takes complex concepts and explains them in simple, understandable terms with good graphic illustrations.If you want the mathematics behind the concepts, those are available too in the back of the book.I found the section on earth rotation and winds very good. It helped explain why the waves aren't any better where I surf.

5-0 out of 5 stars Must have for anyone who likes water
This book is interesting for anyone thta likes water or has wondered about why waves do what they do.This is a must buy for any sea loving person

5-0 out of 5 stars Two words... "Surf Science"
Two words... "Surf Science".
And this is absolutely the best title for this book. A must have for all the surfers that are interested not only in surfing good waves, but for all of them that are interested in knowing how and why the waves break so well or so bad. Wind, wave perfection, cost line, sandbars, reefs, rocks, wave frequency, channels, hollowness, etc... every aspect that affects the wave is explored in this book with great depth.
Everything is very well explained in this book and in a language that is very accessible to all people. ... Read more

13. Surfing the Edge of Chaos: The Laws of Nature and the New Laws of Business
by Richard Pascale, Mark Milleman, Linda Gioja
Paperback: 336 Pages (2001-12)
list price: US$15.95 -- used & new: US$6.53
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 0609808834
Average Customer Review: 3.5 out of 5 stars
Canada | United Kingdom | Germany | France | Japan
Editorial Review

Product Description
Surfing the Edge of Chaos is a brilliant, powerful, and practical book about the parallels between business and nature—two fields that feature nonstop battles between the forces of tradition and the forces of transformation. It offers a bold new way of thinking about and responding to the personal and strategic challenges everyone in business faces these days. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (12)

3-0 out of 5 stars Chaos theory for business (and otehr leaders)
Richard T Pascale, Mark Millenan and Linda Gioja, Surfing at the Edge of Chaos: The Laws of Nature and the Laws of Business (New York: Crown, 2000)

New science that explores the mysteries of life and its complexity is revolutionizing business and leadership. The radical basis is that chaos can be creative and positive in any living system including organisations. Wise leaders will thus revitalize their systems by following the laws of living systems:

* Foster disequilibrium (because equilibrium is unresponsive to change)
* Surf the edge of chaos (where mutation and experimentation will be fruitful)
* Unleash self-organisation and cultivate emergence
* Artfully disturb (don't direct) a living system.

The authors include a number of thoughtful case studies from business and non-profit organizations showing complexity revitalizing organizations, adaptive leaders unleashing the distributed intelligence of their teams, and organizations witnessing the emergence of undreamed of paths and unimagined places `whose time has come'.

Originally reviewed for D Cronshaw "The Emerging Church: Pioneering Leadership and Innovation Reading Guide", Zadok Paper (Forthcoming 2010).

5-0 out of 5 stars Great introduction to a fascinating new field
Chaos WILL BE the next big thing.I found this book fascinating and I truly believe the ideas suggested will have an influence upon business in the years to come.Thinking of the world and business in neo-classical equations is just plain wrong and the quicker we can embrace systemic complexity the better.My only qualm is that as the book wears on the same ideas get a little beaten over the head, but this is MINOR and I still think the book is a must read for anyone interested in this emerging field.

4-0 out of 5 stars Chaos and order are at the edge
I read this book two years ago after being fascinated by the Chaos Theory and the butterfly effect on nature and mathematics. It gave me good insight on how the Chaos Theory is related to management studies. The topic came back to me when I saw recently a summary at Book Summaries Online of the CSTDI Cyber Learning Centre. The 10-page summary is quite comprehensive and gives a very good description of the main points of the book.

The scene is organizations being regarded as living organisms instead of machines. Thus four laws of nature from Chaos Theory are applied:

1. Equilibrium is death -When a living system is in a state of equilibrium, it is less responsive to changes occurring around it. This places it at maximum risk. There is also a well proven law of cybernetics - Requisite Variety - which states that when a system fails to cultivate (not just tolerate) variety in its internal operations, it will fail to deal with variety that challenges it externally.

2. Innovation takes place at the edge of chaos -In the face of threat, or when galvanized by a compelling opportunity, living things move toward the edge of chaos. This condition evokes higher levels of mutation and experimentation. The result is that fresh new solutions are more likely to be found.

3. Self organization and emergence occur naturally -When the right kind of excitation takes place, independent agents move toward what has been popularized as the "tipping point." New forms and repertoires emerge from the turmoil.

4. Organization can only be disturbed, not directed -Living systems cannot be directed along a linear path. Unforeseen consequences are inevitable. The challenge is to disturb them in a manner that moves directionally toward the desired state, then course-correct as the outcome unfolds.

The authors draw reference to Darwin. They go further to propose that the natural selection process come from selection pressure, that species do not evolve of their own accord. Rather, they change because of the forces, indeed threats, imposed on them from the environment. Such selection pressures intensify during periods of radical upheaval. The bottom line is that nature is more dedicated to proliferating life in general than to the perpetuation of any particular species. In a fair competitive environment, no organization has the ability to stay in a equilibrium. Change is the only way to stay alive.

The edge of chaos is a condition, not a location. It is a permeable, intermediate state through which order and disorder flow, not a finite line of demarcation. Moving to the edge of chaos creates upheaval but not dissolution. That's why the edge of chaos is so important. The edge is not the abyss. It's the sweet spot for productive change. But moving over the edge is to avoided.

The book extends the concept of fitness landscape from ecologists to the management area. The great plain is chaotic with customer defections, low margins, undifferentiated products, etc., while fit and successful organizations with their niches are represented as hills in the landscape. An organization grows and climbs a small hill to reach its summit. But in order to achieve greater height at another hill, it must first descend to the plain of chaos, get rid of its culture and build afresh. The journey is a sequence of disturbances and adjustments, not a lock-step march along a predetermined path.

One main point that defies traditional management theory is the trouble with optimization. Management likes to take the classic "blank sheet of paper" approach and optimize the inefficient system. This approach cannot anticipate every twist and turn in the execution phase. The law of unintended consequences reminds us that optimization seldom yields radical innovation. At best, it only maximizes the pre-existing model. It founders because efforts to direct living systems, beyond very general goals, are counterproductive. This seldom conforms to the linear path that we have in mind. This is why the misapplication of linear logic, i.e. re-engineering business processes, will inevitably fail.

The book proposes some guidelines in surfing the edge of chaos by disturbing but not directing the system.

1. Design, don't engineer.

2. Discover, don't presuppose.

3. Amplify, don't dictate.

There are more interesting points in the book. I recommend you to read it.

4-0 out of 5 stars Biology is destiny for companies, too
Managers should closely watch new discoveries in biology, especially the study of self-organization and emergence, particularly as the old hierarchical model of corporate organization becomes seemingly obsolete. Richard T. Pascale, Mark Millemann and Linda Gioja present case histories showing how corporate leaders executed turnarounds and solved critical problems by tapping the insight and intelligence of their organizations' members. In many cases, however, their success was only partial. It is to the authors' credit that they do not flinch from describing failures, even as they support the approach. They particularly note that stress can have the positive effect of forcing an organization to change its behavior. Though they first published their observations in 2000, some of their insights seem likely to endure the test of time. We recommend this book in confidence that executives can learn from its concepts about how natural systems can inform management.

2-0 out of 5 stars Shoddy science research
"Businesses...can learn a great deal from nature (p 3)".I wholeheartedly agree, but unfortunately this book does not deliver.

The business research appears well done, but the science reserach that is supposedly it backing up is abysmal.The impression this book has left me is that the writers started with their theories and then handpicked some scientific anecdotes and (sometimes erroneous) generalities to support some of their claims, while other claims (like the Law of Requisite Variety) have no substantiation from the life sciences attempted.This is a backwards approach; I would have liked to see the authors examine the scientific research and then see what the business implications are.

Three examples of erroneous generalities:

1. Endemic island organisms just "tweaking the status quo" (in reality, this is where the greatest diversity happens; its the 'weedy' organisms like starlings and dandelions that adapt by just 'tweaking'). (And I will try to ignore the goof about the dodo being from the South Pacific).

2. The idea that cooperation and altruism are major forces that organisms "seek" (in reality, these have been discovered to be incidental effects).

3.Equating the idea that 'every molecule in the human body replaces itself via genetic instructions' with the idea that 'human and corporate bodies are rejuvenated by fresh and varied genetic material'.Those are two very opposed statements.

There is so much biological research that has major implications for organizational research that is lacking here:Memetics and primate social systems are two in particular.

To conclude:The authors apparently have a poor grasp of the biological sciences, so that means their attempts at backing up their claims with biological reserach is suspect at best. ... Read more

14. Photo/Stoner: The Rise, Fall, and Mysterious Disappearance of Surfing's Greatest Photographer
by Matt Warshaw
Hardcover: 160 Pages (2006-11-09)
list price: US$40.00 -- used & new: US$14.57
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 0811855333
Average Customer Review: 5.0 out of 5 stars
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In 1965, Ron Stoner was the best surf photographer in the business. Every month, he shot the balmy beaches, bikini-clad girls, and achingly beautiful waves of Southern California for Surfer Magazine. Then, at the height of his fame, Ron Stoner walked off this sunny stage and disappeared forever. In Photo/Stoner, Stoner's strange story is recounted by surfing historian Matt Warshaw alongside Stoner's best photos, reproduced as never before. In these rare images, Stoner recorded more than just a beautiful wave or a perfect moment, he captured the effortless and innocent grace of coastal California—pre-condominium. In word and in image, Photo/Stoner is a poignant ode to a lost era, and a lost man. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (17)

5-0 out of 5 stars Good Vibrations vs Reality
This book has some of the best vintage surfing photography I have ever seen and thats why anyone would buy this book.What I wasn't expecting was that the text would tell such a great story about the reality of that lifestyle in the 60's and early 70's and the destruction it caused to some of its people, namely Mr Stoner. Coming from the Midwest, I really enjoyed both the pictures and the text.

5-0 out of 5 stars GREAT READ
I was looking a book a I could flip through looking at pictures of old style longboarding.Well I got that along with a surprising story about the life of a person I did not know. The story with the pictures really brought out the life and tribulations of one truly gifted surf photographer.

3-0 out of 5 stars The Old Days
Stoner was an up and coming photographer.Too bad about the drugs and his eventual disappearance and finally declared dead some years ago.Alot of good people were lost to drugs in the early days..time just stopped for many in the surfing business..many just could not adjust to change and older age.So it goes!

5-0 out of 5 stars Wave After Wave(In The Ocean of Emotion)
There are people in this world...maybe you know a few of them...maybe you are one of them...who don't really seem to fit in with things of this world. They are driven by maddness or inspiration or both and bring forth things to this world that can never be replicated.

Such is the art of Ron Stoner.

I call his photography art because that is exactly what it is. It captures more than a sport that is, for the most part, widely misunderstood by the majority and goes straight into the salty depths of its soul and lets you in on the secret that most surfers understand; that the ocean is just a symbol of something even greater and riding the waves is simply done out of appreciation and respect for that something greater.

And just like you can look at a Van Gogh or a Matisse and feel something within bursting forth, you can look at a Ron Stoner photograph and feel yourself melting into a world that is very, very Real but not too many of us actually frequent. It is the middle-ground...the veil between the seen and the unseen...the bridge between heaven and earth and even if you but receive the tiniest glimpses of its Reality, you will never ever be the same

...and why would you want to be?

Surfers exude a raw kind of spirituality. They seem to have a "knowing" that there is a magic to life...that "walking" on the water is the most normal thing there is...that all limitation comes from a shallow sense of self and begs release. Maybe it's because this group of people literally soak themselves in the primal soup where God Itself stirred the waters with Its Firey Imagination and created Life Itself.

And like the Living Spirit, everything beneath the surface is Forever, Eternal, Infinite, Beautiful. Even now you are breathing in and out bits and pieces of original life. Even now you are aligned with the Mind of Creation who without hesitation spews forth the invincible invisible.

I like to believe Ron Stoner remembered this and took photos as though he was trying to capture not just the sport and the art of surfing, but something that transcends time and space and rises to meet with the Eternal Grace that is forever making all things new, whole, and holy. He saw through a Divine Lense and captured things on film that leave you shaking your head and giggling silently to yourself out of sheer joy. It's too bad that Stoner could not fully grasp the Truth of his art/his life.

Why did Ron Stoner dissappear into the shadows of maddness?
Why did Van Gogh?
Why do any of us?

Why do some people burst forth with so much creativity in a relatively short period of time and then dissappear into the stillness of the night?

I don't know and I don't pretend to know.

Maybe they give the rest of us something to strive for. Not in the outer world, but in the realms of the hidden heart. Maybe they weren't mad or crazy but just frustrated that the world could not understand true passion and authentic love and original innocence which is deep within us all and for the most part, completely forgotten.

The sun goes down on us all- but like the waves of the sea- we all come out of something bigger than ourselves and even though we like to pretend we're separate from this Infinite Source of Power and Beauty, True Art, like the art Ron Stoner left us with, gets us to remember very, very quickly that we aren't.

I love this book.

Peace & Blessings,
john, "the Light Coach"

5-0 out of 5 stars Surfings best photographer
Great book with some of the best captured photosthat Stoner ever did and I am sure more exist.The narratives and forward were great and not long winded which made for a great reading experience.If you surfed during that era this is a must. ... Read more

15. The Surfing Handbook: Mastering the Waves for Beginning and Amateur Surfers
by Ben Marcus
Paperback: 208 Pages (2010-06-13)
list price: US$19.99 -- used & new: US$12.44
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 076033692X
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Whether you’re a beginner trying to get started or an experienced surfer looking to take it to the next level, The Surfing Handbook gives you the tips you need to maximize your performance on the water, with guidance on training and conditioning, technique and style, safety and etiquette, and gear. Written by veteran pro surfing journalist Ben Marcus, this guide is illustrated with instructional photos and drawings, providing step-by-step instructions, background history—as well as stories and tips from legendary surfers and teachers—making this an informative and entertaining guide that will help you to master the waves.

... Read more

16. Fad Surfing In The Boardroom: Managing In The Age Of Instant Answers
by Eileen C. Shapiro
Paperback: 272 Pages (1996-10-07)
list price: US$16.00 -- used & new: US$2.00
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 0201441950
Average Customer Review: 4.0 out of 5 stars
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Fad Surfing (n): the practice of riding the crest of the latest management panacea and then paddling out again in time to ride the next one; always absorbing for managers and lucrative for consultants; frequently disastrous for organizations.
Amazon.com Review
Shapiro's newest book can help ensure that your companycatches the right wave--instead of getting drowned by the ebb andflow of contradictory managerial fads. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (4)

4-0 out of 5 stars Fad Surfing Rides an Interesting Wave
A powerful, on the money book that expands upon James Champy's "Reengineering Management" and brings out a lot of missing detail. Anyone considering or involved in strategic thinking, strategicplanning and long range planning should read this book.

4-0 out of 5 stars Fad Surfing Rides an Interesting Wave
A powerful, on the money book that expands upon James Champy's "Reengineering Management" and brings out a lot of missing detail. Anyone considering or involved in strategic thinking, strategicplanning and long range planning should read this book.

4-0 out of 5 stars Even with the best advice, management is still hard.
One of Shapiro's best points is her review of research done on companies who have implemented a new management technique--say, TQM. There are some spectacular successes but a high percentage of reports of "no effect" or negative effects. In light of such evidence, Shapiro attempts to suggest the nuggets of sound thinking in popular management ideas and to spot some of the pitfalls. In the real world of business where the level of uncertainty always remains high, there continues to be no substitute for educated managers evaluating for themselves the applicability of new techniques to their unique situations. And then there are never any guarantees. Shapiro's main lesson may be that doctrinaire reliance on somebody else's theory will never substitute for learning as much as one can about one's own dilemma, from all the relevant players, looking at the experience of other organizations whose situations appear to have some similarities to one's own, and then makin! ! g the tough calls about what to do Monday morning, remaining open all along the way for new information.

5-0 out of 5 stars Realistic and interesting commentary on today's management.
Shapiro has captured the essense of manufacturing management in her book.Most corporations go around shopping for the latest panacea or silver bullet on the market.She does an excellent job in poining out both the benefits and pit falls of each of the major trends. Shapiro does a great service to management practices by pointing out that all of these initiatives are neirther good or bad in themselves, put can be used at the wrong time with disasterous results. ... Read more

17. The Art of Surfing: A Training Manual for the Developing and Competitive Surfer
by Raul Guisado
Paperback: 224 Pages (2002-09)
list price: US$16.95 -- used & new: US$6.48
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 0762724668
Average Customer Review: 3.5 out of 5 stars
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Surfing has evolved from a relatively obscure past time to one of the fastest growing sports in the world. Today, there are millions of surfers across the globe. In his new book, competitive surfing coach and Olympic Ski Team coach, Raul Guisado presents the first-ever guide to avail participants, both beginner and advanced, with the same training and coaching principles of the more established and traditional sports. This book will empower both recreational and competitive surfers to improve their technique, expand their repertoire, and prepare themselves to catch the best waves. It covers boards and other equipment, the anatomy of waves, body position and stance, and techniques for everything from paddling to "walking the nose". Special chapters on competition, training, biomechanics,and psychology round out this comprehensive training guide to the sport. ... Read more

Customer Reviews (7)

4-0 out of 5 stars Review of the book: "The Art of Surfing..."
This book is a general overview of all the important aspects of the sport of surfing.I think every surfer should read it, cause it's really helpful.

4-0 out of 5 stars Very detailed and thorough
The Art of Surfing: A Training Manual for the Developing and Competitive Surfer is a very informative read and manual for those interested in starting out in the sport-whether it be for career choices or even recreational purposes-to those looking to advance competitively and improve their performance. For anyone interested in the basics of surfing, or for anyone looking to advance in competition, this book does not dissapoint. Worth every penny.

5-0 out of 5 stars enjoying in putting to use in cold maine waters.....
some of the review are too critical.The author does a great job of breaking down surfing etiquite as well as providing beginning, intermediate and advanced tips that can be used for all surfers.I have checked out other books and while they are good I find this book to be a great reference for those of us who try to surf as often as we can.the conditioning tips are very progressive and opened new facets of training for myself and some friends.

4-0 out of 5 stars Fair & Honest Review
I feel some of the other reviews were a too harsh. I first read the book at Borders and really liked it :) Obviously no book or video compares to time spent in the water but I found the book to be very good and informative. Most "learn to surf" books always seem to contain the same basic info (paddling, popping-up, duck-diving) but this book goes far beyond and can be appreciated by the advancing-beginner & intermediate surfers looking to improve. I'm hoping to teach a surfing class at the college I work for & would seriously consider recommending this book for any surfing students. The other book I really liked was Taj Burrow's Book of Surfing but I believe is for more advanced surfers and contains too much surf jargon & slang for the beginners.

1-0 out of 5 stars Surfing and skiing are they the same, no way.
After surfing for over 15 years no book can really teach you how to surf.Skiing is far from surfing, in fact a swim coach would probably have a better idea of how to condition for surfing.I would say put down your cash for some surf wax and get out, there is no need to buy this book.Seems like the author trying to cash in on surfing and can he surf, maybe but not very many years in the water. ... Read more

18. Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul, And, of Course, Surfing
by Laird Hamilton
Paperback: 260 Pages (2010-08-31)
list price: US$19.99 -- used & new: US$9.11
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 1609611020
Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars
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Laird Hamilton has been hailed as the world's greatest big-wave surfer. His first book, Force of Nature, allows readers a rare glimpse inside the unique philosophy that has created his circumstances, and not the other way around. After all, this is a man whose biological father abandoned him shortly after he was born; whose first job was working on a pig far; who dropped out of school in eleventh grade. And then the career decision: surfer. Though earning enough to pay the rent as any kind of surfer is next to impossible, Hamilton has ended up in the place we all desire to be: doing exactly what he loves, becoming the world's best in the process, making a great living, being surrounded by nature and family, radiating peak health and fitness, and succeeding by any definition of the word.
How did he get there? And more importantly, how can the rest of us join him?
Force of Nature is a detailed map to that destination, with Laird Hamilton as the reader's guide. It's not about chasing trophies or accolades or cash. It's about quality over quantitysoul and being true to your physical, mental, and spiritual roots. Not only is it possible to thrive in the modern world without adopting its harmful habits, it's essential. And not only has Hamilton mastered this balance, he makes a compelling and articulate case that anyone who wants to can do the same.
This book is a deeply authoritative and cutting-edge guide to peak fitness in mind, body, sould, and surfing. It comes directly from the source and his inner circle, which includes those at the vanguard of sports, training, nutrition, and more. Former pro volleyball player Gabrielle Reece; surf legend Dave Kalama; fitness gurus Paul Chek, T.R. Goodman, and Don Wildman; and Food Network star Giada De Laurentiis all contribute their knowledge. Readers will get an all-access pass into an elite world filled with definitive and provocative ideas.
... Read more

Customer Reviews (39)

5-0 out of 5 stars Force of Nature: Mind, Body, Soul, And, of Course, Surfing
Laird Hamilton has the best attitude about life.You don't have to be a surfer to read his book.I, personally, can't see any way that I can be as satisfied with life as he is and as he wants 'us' to be.I envy him & his family.I bought the book for my brother who adopted his boys after age 50 because "life was too simple".He is now a single dad of a 17 & 14 year old.He is 7 years older than me and is raising them as I grew up.We would be on a hike with our family and they would just leave me, knowing, back in the 60s that I was fine and the trails had a lot more solitude for miles than they do now.I would complain that my pack (which was supposed to be my weight, always) was too heavy or I was too tired or the mosquitos were eating me alive.They would say okay and off they'd go.I would play on the trail & find my elf friends (yes) in the tree roots for awhile, then catch up with them eventually.Usually they were at the destination already and having a picnic which was a great reward.All this to attempt to say that I feel Laird Hamilton is bringing up his family with a keen independence and appreciation for life.He says we should all scare ourselves at least once a day (to live to our fullest). Wow, I so agree, and am not there yet, but still appreciate the goal.

5-0 out of 5 stars Awesome Book! Filled with priceless information...photos etc.
This book is a must read for anyone who is interested in staying both mentally and physically fit. I am buying this book for friends for the holidays! 5 STARS!!!!!

5-0 out of 5 stars Laird at his best!
This book is a must for training. Deicately balanced between philosophy and practical application, Force of Nature is masterfully written with a great inside look at Laird's daily routines. From diet to workouts to surfing tips, Force of Nature is fully loaded

5-0 out of 5 stars awesome inspiring athlete
I thoroughly enjoyed this book. It provides an all round view of this awesome athlete, not only on surfing, but life, fitness, diet, his philosophies, and includes insights from those who know him. We gain an appreciation of his holistic approach to his sport and life.An athlete who is not after trophies or accolades, but just wants to live life to the full and push the boundaries.He has a good little core conditioning workout which I now include in my morning routine. My mum always told me to go into the sea if I had an injury, and I note Laird promotes the same. Just one of the many little gems of information in this book. Will definitely remain on my coffee table for all to read.

5-0 out of 5 stars Worth the read, suprisingly.
Found the book on a late night talk show, decided to get it from the library. It was so inspirational that I have since (4 months ago): bought it, started running and quit smoking after 15 years (3 months now). I feel more focused at work and feel better now that I am sleeping more too.

Surfing is irrelevant to a city boy in the Midwest but I love this book. ... Read more

19. Surf's Up: The Girl's Guide to Surfing
by Louise Southerden
Paperback: 272 Pages (2005-03-01)
list price: US$15.95 -- used & new: US$8.95
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 0345476611
Average Customer Review: 5.0 out of 5 stars
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Have you always thought surfing looks like so much fun but lacked the confidence to try it? Do you dream of having sun-bleached hair and surf-toned arms? Maybe you’d like to join those surfers you watch from the comfort of your beach towel? With women’s surfing booming as never before, now is the perfect time to grab a board and get out there! If you’re a girl who longs to mix it up with the boys in the surf, carve graceful lines across the face of a wave, and feel the exhilaration of surfing, this book is for you. Surf’s Up has it all, including

• what to look for when buying a surfboard
• how to find the right waves
• how to paddle out, catch waves, stand up, and turn your board
• a colorful history of women’s surfing, from Gidget to Beachley
• where to find North America’s dream surfing spots

Writing with the passion that comes from living the surfing life for more than fifteen years, Louise Southerden brings her love of surfing to every page, offering a glimpse of surfing subculture, surf lingo, the rules of the waves, and helpful tips from other surfer girls who have survived the learning-to-surf journey. Surf’s Up is encouraging and empowering: a book no surfer girl should be without! ... Read more

Customer Reviews (6)

5-0 out of 5 stars Great book
The book is a great intro for the beginner surfer.It packs in a lot of info and is much more informative compared to other surf books that I purchased.It contains info on websites for additional information, and on surfing clubs.You can tell that the author is enthusiastic and loves surfing.

5-0 out of 5 stars Amazing Book
I have read this book, time and again and in my opinion contrary to what the title suggests this book is equally useful for guys as well as girls.

Well written, nice pictures and comments from pro surfers. It does deal with some of girl specific issues which either guys can ignore or appreciate.

It will definitely be useful for a beginner or heck even an intermediate surfer.

5-0 out of 5 stars Great book for begginers
I'm 30 years old female and new to surfing i bought this book before i started my first surf lesson and really help me a lot. This a great book,
i seriously recommend it for begginers any age, is very well detailed and many helpfull tips..
If you get this book you wont regret it.

5-0 out of 5 stars Very well written, detailed book
This book is the most detailed guide I've found for surfing. The Surf Diva guide is also very good but not as detailed and informative as this book.I highly recommend it.

5-0 out of 5 stars Great for anyone learning to surf, guys as well
I bought this book for my 11 yr old daughter who started surfing with me a couple of years ago. When she was finished, I read this book to see how it was.It was one of the best surf books I ever read.I think that the fact that it was geared towards women by a women, it made it more relaxed and fun.We (men) tend to get to serious and lose the point of it. Anyway, Louise (the author) was playful as well as insightful. You can tell by this book that Louise really loves surfing and her whole souful lifestyle. Her kind and warm personality shown through by her writing.
I would highly reccogmend this book to anyone who wants to learn how to surf or just be part of the relaxed surf culture.

P.S. I bought a copy for myself and refer to it all the time.Great job Louise. I am now a big fan of yours.Aloha

Ron DiMauro ... Read more

20. No Tech Hacking: A Guide to Social Engineering, Dumpster Diving, and Shoulder Surfing
by Johnny Long, Jack Wiles
Paperback: 384 Pages (2008-02-21)
list price: US$49.95 -- used & new: US$23.68
(price subject to change: see help)
Asin: 1597492159
Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars
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As the cliché reminds us, information is power. In this age of computer systems and technology, an increasing majority of the world's information is stored electronically. It makes sense then that as an industry we rely on high-tech electronic protection systems to guard that information. As a professional hacker, I get paid to uncover weaknesses in those systems and exploit them. Whether breaking into buildings or slipping past industrial-grade firewalls, my goal has always been the same: extract the informational secrets using any means necessary. After hundreds of jobs, I discovered the secret to bypassing every conceivable high-tech security system. This book reveals those secrets, and as the title suggests, it has nothing to do with high technology. As it turns out, the secret isn't much of a secret at all. Hackers have known about these techniques for years. Presented in a light, accessible style, you'll get to ride shotgun with the authors on successful real-world break-ins as they share photos, videos and stories that prove how vulnerable the high-tech world is to no-tech attacks.

As you browse this book, you'll hear old familiar terms like "dumpster diving", "social engineering", and "shoulder surfing". Some of these terms have drifted into obscurity to the point of becoming industry folklore; the tactics of the pre-dawn information age. But make no mistake; these and other old-school tactics work with amazing effectiveness today. In fact, there's a very good chance that someone in your organization will fall victim to one or more of these attacks this year. Will they be ready?

. Dumpster Diving
Be a good sport and don't read the two "D" words written in big bold letters above, and act surprised when I tell you hackers can accomplish this without relying on a single bit of technology (punny).
. Tailgating
Hackers and ninja both like wearing black, and they do share the ability to slip inside a building and blend with the shadows.
. Shoulder Surfing
If you like having a screen on your laptop so you can see what you're working on, don't read this chapter.
. Physical Security
Locks are serious business and lock technicians are true engineers, most backed with years of hands-on experience. But what happens when you take the age-old respected profession of the locksmith and sprinkle it with hacker ingenuity?
. Social Engineering with Jack Wiles
Jack has trained hundreds of federal agents, corporate attorneys, CEOs and internal auditors on computer crime and security-related topics. His unforgettable presentations are filled with three decades of personal "war stories" from the trenches of Information Security and Physical Security.
. Google Hacking
A hacker doesn't even need his own computer to do the necessary research. If he can make it to a public library, Kinko's or Internet cafe, he can use Google to process all that data into something useful.
. P2P Hacking
Let's assume a guy has no budget, no commercial hacking software, no support from organized crime and no fancy gear. With all those restrictions, is this guy still a threat to you? Have a look at this chapter and judge for yourself.
. People Watching
Skilled people watchers can learn a whole lot in just a few quick glances. In this chapter we'll take a look at a few examples of the types of things that draws a no-tech hacker's eye.
. Kiosks
What happens when a kiosk is more than a kiosk? What happens when the kiosk holds airline passenger information? What if the kiosk holds confidential patient information? What if the kiosk holds cash?
. Vehicle Surveillance
Most people don't realize that some of the most thrilling vehicular espionage happens when the cars aren't moving at all! ... Read more

Customer Reviews (13)

3-0 out of 5 stars Good, but needs improvement.
This is a fine book, no doubt about it. And it offers some interesting and much-needed alternative perspectives on security.

The book could have had one or two additional stars, but it lacks a caring editorial hand.
The book is obviously written by several authors, and lacks structure between the individual chapters, consistency in presentation and language.

Overall, each chapters are interesting but in some chapters the authors seem more motivated to show off how smart they are and desire to share the outcry over the information they can get near.
The authors appear more fascinated by their own achievements, however minor they may be (Hey look, I've found out that my fellow passenger is a soldier! - Hey look, I found a bill and it says how much something has cost) than to disseminate security threats and their significance

This book has the potential to be a fantastic eye-opener - a new classic in safety. But it fails and delivers petty smugness, instead of new thinking and inspiration.

I am looking forward to revision 2 - I am sure it will be great.

4-0 out of 5 stars No Tech Hacking an eye opener
a bit chilling as he shows what can be filmed/videod off a computer screen
by a " tourist" through the business window while standing out on the sidewalk waiting for a buss .

That old " where there is a will there is a way "

5-0 out of 5 stars No Tech Hacking
Very useful book, teaches a lot about being aware of your environment at all times and paying attention to details
as Johny Long takes you on an exciting adventure of different methods that can seem trivial at first glance, but will result in a lot of information gathering for the pen-tester, highly recommended.

5-0 out of 5 stars Great
Making you pay attention to the obvious.Things that you would normally gloss over, suddenly you start seeing once you read this book.

5-0 out of 5 stars No Tech Skills
This is a great book for any security related field. It introduces you to the simple techniques of getting information in easy to accomplish ways with little complex technical skills. The original purpose written by the author of the book is to explain defensive techniques and methodology to the simple techniques that can be used to circumvent technology and people security to gain information from targets. ... Read more

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